Thread: D2 front recovery points???

I agree with John W in regard to the mountings on most of these recovery eyes in that the rotational forces applied in a tug of any size will do damage.
I have always been taught that pulls MUST be as straight line as possible, and that would apply to inline of the chassis also. As an experiment hook a winch to the top of your bullbar and see how much in will turn as opposed to attaching to the bumper section! As Pedro said also use of a bridle will spread the forces dramatically.
Just my thoughts as a broken mounting embedded in a pull car is thought provoking to say the least! :O

Originally Posted by onebob

The ones that CJT found at 4X4 Design and Engineering will fit with a standard front bar and they bolt to the same holes as the steering protector bar. For access to the recovery points you need to trim (i mean cut off) the bottom of the plastic bumper along the lower mould line. This was a common mod so i expect that there are photo's and a "how to" already posted on this forum.

Onebob

I'd like to see how much is 'trimmed'. Has anyone done this and have photos.

I'm sceptical as the 4x4de sight shows the recovery points fitted to a vehicle that has a bull bar and steering protector plate fitted not the standard bumper and wombat bar.

I have the 4x4de steering protector and Troutbeck recovery points that were fitted to my D1. Although the bolt holes may be in the same place the front of a D2 is by no means the same. I'd have to hack the front bumper quite a bit for any recovery as the shackles would sit low and far back.

Unlike the D1 where you could take off the lower skirt and trim the side bumper corners along a mould line that matched up with the metal bumper, the D2 is a one peace moulding.

Originally Posted by Gullible

I'd like to see how much is 'trimmed'. Has anyone done this and have photos.

I'm sceptical as the 4x4de sight shows the recovery points fitted to a vehicle that has a bull bar and steering protector plate fitted not the standard bumper and wombat bar.

I have the 4x4de steering protector and Troutbeck recovery points that were fitted to my D1. Although the bolt holes may be in the same place the front of a D2 is by no means the same. I'd have to hack the front bumper quite a bit for any recovery as the shackles would sit low and far back.

Unlike the D1 where you could take off the lower skirt and trim the side bumper corners along a mould line that matched up with the metal bumper, the D2 is a one peace moulding.

I have the same dilemmas with wanting to keep the stock bumper, and not really having much luck finding a recovery point that plays nicely. The ideal point needs to be accessible via the existing hatch - I have plans to cut a similar hatch on the other over-rider if I manage to find something suitable.

I've been tempted to get a couple of points modelled on the stock point made up, using 6mm side plates and the hoop and bottom replaced with 10 or 12mm plate. My main concern is if the welding will be adequately strong.

cheers
Paul

I have seen something similar to your idea where they attach a rated hook to the bottom plate. I'll see if I can find the thread.

Here it is:

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...hp't=34369

you mean this?

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...9&d=1242205768

Similar idea, but what I was thinking was uprated but functionally identical to the stock point in that you would attach a shackles and bridle directly to the points via the cut out in the same way as shown in this earlier post: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1693004

I was planning on a single 10 or 12 mm bottom plate with a cutout for attaching a shackle. The side plates would be about half this thickness - because you have two plates resisting lateral forces in what is effectively a box section this should be at least as resistant to bending forces as a single 12mm plate hook.

cheers
Paul

I think there are +s and -s for both methods.

If you go with a cut-out you will need enough metal in front of the hole to take the forces exerted during a recovery. Is will required the shackle being further inside the bumper.

If you bolt a rated hook to the bottom plate the tip of the hook can be at the end or even slightly protrude in front of the plate.

I'm still doing some thinking about this and have not settled one way or the other.

If you use a bridle of reasonable length it isn't going to be a big issue. We are talking about the leading edge of the cut out being 20 mm behind the bumper.

Davis makes a rated version of the stock tow point...

Might suit your needs