Thread: Discovery 2 weights and measures.....

Hi there, not to sure on the details of weight etc but in regards to more power getting the ECU mapped to suit your own needs/driving style is a good place to start. Getting rid of the EGR should be up there somewhere, not because its a potential issue (in the long run yes) but because it is a relatively simple job and your engine will thank you. The disco has eu3 and eu3, the latter having a egr cooler so a de-EGR kit for an eu2 or 3 will vary slightly. I think late 2001 are eu3 but don't quote me on that. I've removed my catalytic converter for the hell of it really, haven't noticed an increase in power or anything but it's nice to know the engine should be breathing easier. Again only some of the td5's have the cat converter. On another note and your probably aware of the front prop shaft in these things; if not there's a thread with 200+ posts regarding it. I think I've read a few people beefing up the turbo on the td5 by installing another unit though I believe this is a more pricey upgrade. For 10-15k it looks like you'll be getting a v8 unless you can find a cheap td5 out there somewhere; I have a td5 and it's been able to do whatever I ask of it; though in comparison to your plans it's not a lot (towing a 97 Daewoo Lanos for 150k), is the most I've thrown at it, though my godfather whom I bought it off used it to tow his dingo (mini bobcat thingo) on a heavy duty trailer about 3-4 times a week for 6 years. Mines had its issues that I attribute to its working life, the worst being a blown rear diff, but other issues I was able to deal with myself apart from a few niggly jobs like a leaking transfer case.


the RAVE manual I would think should have some specific information your looking for; sorry I can't provide a link but someone will.

The final Discovery 2 rolled off the production lines on 27 May 2004, but took some time to clear out of the dealer network so you occasionally get D2's that were first registered in 2005. These are still a 2004 Build , 2004 Model Year Discovery.

All Discovery 2s have the same wheel base: 100 inches or 2540mm, regardless of being 5 or 7 seats. Any other figure for wheel base is incorrect.

Curb weight varies depending on engine, transmission, number of seats. A V8, manual, 5 seater, with minimum trim levels will be the lightest, a Td5, Auto, 7 seater with leather, sunroof and all the bells and whistles the heaviest.

V8 unladen weight: 2095 - 2235 kg.
Td5 unladen weight: 2150 - 2290 kg.

Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight:


All 5 seat vehicles (coil springs): 2750 kg

All 7 seat Diesel engine vehicles (coil springs): 2880 kg

All 7 seat Petrol engine vehicles (coil springs): 2825 kg

V8 models with self levelling suspension: 2825 kg

Td5 models with self levelling suspension 2880 kg

D2's with SLS ( self levelling suspension) have a higher maximum rear axle loading:

With coil springs: 1720 kg
With self levelling suspension: 1800 kg

A SLS equipped vehicle would be your first choice if you are looking at towing.

You should be able to find a decent Td5 from 2000-2001 for under $15,000.

cheers
Paul

Gee thanks Trevor and OffTrack. This is exactly what I needed.
You guys have saved me many hours and now at least I have a good Idea on what to look at. Or anyone else new to Land Rover.

Ill try to get a TD5 , it does not have to be a show car but just reliable.
Im planning to go looking this weekend to see whats on offer. the Three Amigos is to my knowledge an issue to look out for and in my price range I suspect there could be more potential of finding this.

Besides the usual basic checks on buying a new vehicle, is there anything that I should make a priority to check to avoid issues later on down the track?

And thanks again guys.

The amigos are a roadworthy issue, so you shouldn't be buying a vehicle with them showing, unless the vendor is prepared to have them fixed.

The best thing you can do if you have found a vehicle that you would consider buying, is to have it inspected by a LR specialist. It might cost you $250 but in the context of what you'll pay if you buy a d2 with issues it's cheap insurance.

Cheers
Paul

Check out the good oil section here. This list is also handy:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...dash-photo.doc

The three amigos as they become known is all down to the ABS sensors and the way the computer interprets what it sees. The times I have had the three amigos it has been very temporary and have reset after turning the ignition off and back on again. On one occasion I had to take the vehicle to the mechanic for him to clear the faults and reset the ECU. The worst faults with the three amigos come down to the need for a replacement wheel sensor assembly.

TD5 have issues not dissimilar to other alloy head vehicles in that they are sensitive to over heating. Some owners have taken to installing a low coolant alarm to avoid costly repairs as a replacement head gasket is much cheaper than a replacement head or complete engine.

There are some maintenance issues that you need to attend to when they show up and knowing what they are and what to expect is half the challenge. There is a case of oil migrating inside the wire insulation of the injector harness as the connections are under the rocker cover. This results in some misfiring and an inability to run at higher revs. A replacement harness is not that expensive so when the time comes to attend to this the simplest way is to replace the harness. Some people have taken to cleaning the harness out through the use of solvents but I have not had to deal with this issue in five or six years of ownership.

The MAF is another area that can result in poor performance and regular cleaning at service time will keep things going.

For towing I would try to get an automatic TD5 and these do also have a service life of somewhere around the 200k. replacement is likely to range from depending on who does it and how much you can do yourself. I suspect that a reconditioned auto is likely to set you back $3-4k and then you have the labour to remove and install.

Keep your charge cooler clean through an occasional wash out of the oil or just install a provent oil separator to increase the length of time before needing a clean.

Don't overfill the oil as excessive splash can result in the engine running on its on oil with eventual destruction of the engine as you will not be able to shut it down. Some vehicles have developed a porous head or an injector leak and fuel can thin the oil out and can also result in running on the sump contents as the diesel increases the oil level if it leaks at a fast enough rate.

The remapping of the ECU can do wonders but with an auto you will be limited as the vehicle will not like the sort of torque that you can generate with an aggressive remap.

Hope all goes well. Keep in mind that it is a 2.5 with turbo it is the equivalent of about a 5+ ltr NA engine but that is only once the turbo is spooled up and on song, at other times it is less than that and this is where the auto can help as it allows the engine to rev up into the rev band where the turbo comes into play a lot easier than with a manual.

Originally Posted by slug_burner

The three amigos as they become known is all down to the ABS sensors and the way the computer interprets what it sees. ... The worst faults with the three amigos come down to the need for a replacement wheel sensor assembly.

The ABS sensors are one possible cause of the Amigo's, and definitely not the worst. Other relatively common problems include:

- Worn hub bearing ( requires replacement of hub)
- Shuttle Valve Switch failure (possibly caused by leaking shuttle valve seals)
- Cracked solder joint in modulator solenoid pack
- Pump failure

In some instances the only solution is replacement of the SLABS ECU.

But realistically a vehicle can't be sold as roadworthy with brake warning lights showing. And to be honest if someone can't be arsed fixing a fault with the brakes, you'd have to assume the rest of the vehicle has been treated with the same degree of neglect.

I've had my Td5 D2 for about 12 months. It was purchased at 207K KM for about $13.5K. It's now done close to 228K KM. In that time I've had the amigo's appear once 6 months ago after the brakes squeaked while pulling out of a hotel carpark in the Flinders Ranges. Turned the ignition off, then restarted, and I haven't seen them since.

cheers
Paul

From what I'm reading here I must have got a really good deal - 2000 td5 auto, 7 seats, SLS, 164k, usual oil leaks from rear crankshaft seal & TC input shaft, cracked rear tail light & bumper, bullbar, spots, snorkel, dual batteries, new turbo, new front tailshaft, new tyres, 12 months rego, absolutely neat as a pin...$9500
Since buying it, upgraded spots to Narva Ultima 225s, coil conversion, UHF CB, new stereo, RMW seat covers (Country Proud), roof bar mounting 2 spotties & amber beacon, front recovery points x 2, currently building steel rear bar.
My point is, shop around & you can pick up a good bargain. Sorry about the brag on my rig