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Must say i am feeling a little more positive at the moment, but still no success in correct diagnosis...
have had the Hawkeye hooked up when i went and got 3/4 tonne of wood, towing up hill, pushing it to keep speed up and the temp didn't rise above 90.4 degrees.. (must say it was only about 14 degrees outside) .. by the time we got back home i could hear the air/coolant trying to push out through the overflow pipe....
Have to say, I would have thought that if hot exhaust gases were leaking into the coolant, the temp should have shot up????
Rang Whyatts in Gero, W.A. still excellent service, always happy to assist over the phone - highly recommend them... first suggestion was to check the small hose from top let of radiator to overflow wasn't blocked and that it was flowing into reservior as that can cause pressure build-up.. checked that and unfortunately it was working fine... now have to call them back this morning to see what the next step is..
Fingers crossed we come up with something before having to remove the head...
slowly sorting through it ;)
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quick update since my last post - not the best unfortunately..
one evening on a 150 km trip home, it decided to overheat :( Luckily i had the hawkeye hooked up and was keeping an eye on it just in case so I think i caught it before it did further damage...
Managed to get home that night after a couple of stops (and also hitting two owls which smashed my windscreen and dented my roof - HAD A GREAT DAY!!!!)
Just pulled the head off and the gasket is not looking in the best conditions... has delaminated everywhere and gasket has a couple of cracks that go across one or two coolant galleries.... one of which looks like it has interrupted the fire ring, so could just be the gasket...
BUT, could all this gasket damage be a result of a crack further inside the head somewhere???
Taking it up to Bunbury on Monday to have it pressure tested and see what happens from there!!
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same problem
How did you go with the overheating / loss of coolant problem?
I have a similar problem with a 10P TD5 and am also in the process of eliminating the possibilities before I admit (inevitably) that the problem is most likely a cracked head through into the no 1 exhaust port.
During the diagnosis I have discovered a badly eroded water pump impeller, a failed coolant tank cap and a mis shapen coolant tank neck all contibuting but not causing the problem - the final clue seems to be that you can actually hear the gas in the coolant as you drive (through the heater core I suspect) shortly followed by the overheating.
If you drive carefully shifting before 3000 rpm you can control the overheating but driven hard you can induce the overheating in 10 or so minutes and when checked the coolant has dropped 3-4 litres!
Apparently this is an age old problem with TD5,s and the only real fix is an AMC cylinder head (aftermarket spanish head) which has re-engineered water and fuel galleries, thicker in all the right places
Good luck
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I WAS LUCKY - Sort of
End result was the head gasket was absolutely stuffed and had cracks through the gasket!!!
But, it also was now slightly warped which made things worse.
With all the deliberations of whether they can or cannot be skimmed, as i was saving considerable money doing it myself, i decided to go with 'can be skimmed, but only up to 10 thou..
Had it skimmed 8 thou and valves re-seated. put all back together and so far so good. no overheating, no coolant loss, no excess pressures etc etc etc..
All up cost for machine work and gaskets about $1200 (still waiting for final invoice for gaskets as the head gasket may be under warranty still!! so could be less)
NOTE: if you do this yourself, put a new thermostat in when you put it back together, my new one seized as it was left dry for a week or two (put it in before pulling it apart!)
