Thread: TD5 fuel regulator hose leak repair

Just an update. I successfully changed over the fuel line on Sunday and managed to drive it back to Melbourne. I had 2 snags during the process. The first was the bolt for the alternator bracket was seized on. I solved this by picking up a set of those "petal shaped" extractor sockets from the local hardware store. The second was I accidently snapped the crappy-plastic coolant hose to the top of the EGR heat exchanger. This I managed to hose-clamp back on after removing a few cable ties to get some slack.

Thanks again!

Are those pictures tiny for everyone else too?

One of the first things to go wrong when I bought my D2a was the fuel regulator hose that runs underneath the inlet manifold sprung a leak (I assume this is the same one that this thread it on - can't tell from the tiny pictures).

I remove the inlet manifold (doesn't take long), removed the hose, went to Enzed and they replaced the rubber hose on it with a new fuel line (can't buy them separately from the fuel pressure regulator - except for on eBay from the UK and I didn't want to wait). Aside from that the only other cost was new o-rings to suit the hose and a new inlet manifold gasket. Was pretty cheap repair and didn't take too long.

Re your tiny piccies, My browser( FirePox ) opens 2 new tabs of the same pic a tiny thumbnail and the normal size 1. Why it does so I do not really know. Only does it for pics uploaded on AULRO. Should ook into it, maybe, one day by em by soonbe
Maybe yours is not opening the second 1?
Cheers Scott

The full size pictures and the full description is in the PDF file that is linked to at the bottom of the original post.

I've dug up this thread because I've encountered the same problem on my 2004 TD5.
My question is does anyone happen to know the part number of the troublesome hose without having to fork out for the complete regulator assembly?

Hi Doug. I realise your post on replacing the FPR top hose was some 9 years ago, but as a fellow South Australian, wanted to thank you for the detailed tutorial.
I’ve had a 2003 TD5 defender since 2007 and replaced the FPR 3 times since purchasing but never replaced the top return line due to this access problem... That was until Friday when towing the boat to the river I noticed the old diesel trail and newly rust proofed boat on the trailer ☹️. Had to get a tow home and attempt to fit the replacement line which was actually supplied with the new FPR is purchased 10 years ago.
After attempting to manufacture a replica of your spanner and busting it through excessive grinding I visited Bunnings to purchase the cheapest 14mm ring spanner I could find. Bent the ring end ground down and cut the gap for the fuel line but instead of bending at 90 degrees half way I just left it as it was, slid over the pipe and tapped into place with a hammer then used a shifter on the flat handle to loosen the reclusive nut. Worked a treat, job done in 30 minutes!
Thanks again for your post, still working 9 years on.
Chris

Hi ... A pom stuck in Germany and happy to read this thread. I have the same problem and will attempt this repair if my idea doesn't work. I am going to try cutting the pipe on both ends and slipping a new pipe on with pipe clips. I am going to use a Dremel with a flexi pipe and small cutting disc in an effort not to have to dismantle anything. I will let you know how I get on.

Now to my question. There has been mention of temporary repairs. I even came across a video of an Irish man who was struck down in Spain and did a temporary repair to get home. That is where I got the idea of cutting the pipe. He used a hacksaw and took loads of stuff apart which i don't want to do. Back to the question ... what can be used for a temporary "get-you-home" repair. Leak is where the pipe goes into the connector at the front.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by devatalk

Hi ... A pom stuck in Germany and happy to read this thread. I have the same problem and will attempt this repair if my idea doesn't work. I am going to try cutting the pipe on both ends and slipping a new pipe on with pipe clips. I am going to use a Dremel with a flexi pipe and small cutting disc in an effort not to have to dismantle anything. I will let you know how I get on.

.....

This works fine, but a tip! use a lot more hose than you think is good. Initially I reckon I had about an inch of hose on each end of the pipe, but eventually did come off. Diesel is a lubricant, but this pipe isn't under a lot of pressure. So the first hose length was replaced with a longer piece. Can't say for sure, but roughly 3 or more inches(75mm-ish!) of hose over the pipe ends. Still only 1 clamp per end. So far so good for about 5 ish years(maybe 4, can't recall exactly when we did this.
But I redid the entire hose and front pipe for this part.
The rear section is kept with the normal pipe and screw fitting, but the front end(where it bolts into the head), I changed the pipe with the quick connector end.
The short straight pipe on the FPR with the quick connect, has the same thread size as the fuel return pipe's front pipe end. As it's straight it's easy to get on with a deep socket(maybe 12mm or something) and with the quick connect it's then easy to get a connector(I used a 90° type) on the hose. So that is, I removed the front pipe end completely and just used hose from the rear pipe section.