Exactly the same as you get now ;)
Stall really only comes into it when loaded up and/or accelerating
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scottsride - just to elaborate on what Tombie has said for your benefit in understanding. When your cruising along on the road/highway etc., your torque converter generally should lock up - when the torque converter is locked your engine speed (RPM) is proportionate to your road speed (km/h) through the vehicles gearing. Changing the torque converter will not effect this as the heavy duty torque converter when locked will be operating the same as the standard unit.
If your looking to effect your engine RPM to your road speed you would need to alter your vehicles gearing (i.e. change your overall wheel/tyre size or the differential gearing).
this is my way of reading and researching as i dont have a workshop book.
Know I have been driving my td5 for 2 weeks now. mostly in d. never had it lock up in 3rd once only overdrive at 80km.. so had no idea it is can to be locked in 3rd...
I did do some more web seraching last night and found that it locks at 70km in 3rd when holding it in 3rd gear.. I will test drive for this..
I aslo read an other thead with pic of shift patten showing it will lock up on every forward gear. this most only be for low rage i gather?
sorry if i come across dumb ass. this td5 is new to me and website is my only source of info. plse feel free not to reply if my questions seem stuped to you.
Scott...
What I am eluding to, is get into this forum and "read your arse off" then "read some more" before posting questions...
There is so much info here, that everything you could conceive to ask most likely has been...
And the bit about Jap fourbys rings true... Forget the BS, you know - 6" lifts etc.... They aren't needed..
Find your true usage for your vehicle, read the forum for advice, then go build it....
We (me included) will be more than happy to assist you :D
And go to the Shop link at the top of the screen...
Go find RAVE for Discovery 2
Buy a copy...
Then you will have all the workshop info / manuals ;)
The lock up diagram shown in the other thread is for the v8. The td5 has different lockup points but will lock up in all forward gears in high range. As you've found the TC locks at just above 80 in 4 with light throttle. Lock up in 1 and 2 only occurs with large throttle inputs and low road speeds - probably most often encountered towing up steep climbs.
In low range the TC will only lock with revs over 2000rpm and 0% throttle - this is to give improved engine braking when descending steep hills in the LR approved manner. This is using low first, hdc engaged and feet off brakes and throttle.
Cheers
Paul
I'm no auto gearbox guru but I would have expected a reduced rpm in the situation described above , ie running flat road 50 kph or 70 etc ( and I did but my t/c was worn out , good illustration of what I mean thou ) I went from 2600 rpm ( old t/c ) to hold 50kph on a flat road to 1700 rpm and at 70 kph I'm 1750 rpm .
At 50 kph the t/c is not commanded to lock ( from above post back a bit) so the t/c is fluuidly provinding the coupling so to speak . As the engine rpm increases the work the t/c passes on increases , so if it stalled at 2700 and now stalls at 2200 it has to be picking up quicker . To keep the truck rolling along at 50 kph you do not need anywhere near enough power to get the t/c locked up fluidly ( not sure the corect word but hopefully you know what I mean ) so the lower stall t/c has to run at a lower engine rpm ( as it will approach a fluid lock up before the higher one ).
I see the same rpm's with the new t/c as the old when locked up , as I would expect . However I saw a reduction in shift points with a light to medium foot , generally used to change at 2700 light foot and now 1800 to 2200 , good medium foot at it will go to 2500 rpm , old was well over 3300 ( never drove it over 2800 really , yes it was slow ) . This I imagine has to do with fluid pressure etc off the t/c , if the pressure is up and coasting along the auto should change up a gear . Because my t/c did not transfer the fluid from engine side to gearbox side the auto did not see the same pressure until a higher rpm .
When my t/c was swapped out , nothing else was done to the vehicle . Gearbox was dropped out , t/c swapped , lines flushed and rear main seal done , gearbox back in .
This is how I imagine it to work , does it make sense ? Can anyone explain how it actually works .
Cheers
Chris