Heaps of links on eBay for "add a fuse". A mate and I are working on cheaper postage from the uk for 10 normal and 6mini now.
If you only want one they work out to about $6-7each delivered.
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Heaps of links on eBay for "add a fuse". A mate and I are working on cheaper postage from the uk for 10 normal and 6mini now.
If you only want one they work out to about $6-7each delivered.
Got mine powering off the second battery directly, wire running through the firewall. Fused at the battery of course.
a useful link ....
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1640112
happy to take questions.
onebob
Hi onebob,Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
I think this is gonna be simple but I'm trying to get my head around this as I'm used to hardwiring my accessories to the battery. These add a fuse things plug into existing fuse slots and do you rid the existing fuse or is it joined/adapted to the "add a fuse" somehow? This fuse then gives you a positive for your cb radio etc that you connect and then just connect your negative somewhere? If this is correct I think I'm gonna redo my cb install as its going through the firewall now and would rather it not be hardwired.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Hi Trevor,
To use the add-a-fuse pull out a fuse in the use box and put that fuse into the bottom slot (closest to the blades) of the add-a-fuse block - put your accessory fuse into the upper slot - plug the add-a-fuse block back into where you took the original fuse from - connect your accessory to the wire.
In my earlier link you'll see references to which fuse positions provide ignition only power or accessory power or constant power. My CB is on fuse 5.
The 2 metal brace supports under the dash have threaded holes that take i think an M5 bolt (not sure) that i use for my earth point.
Good luck ... Robert
Hardwired is the best way to get the best performance from a radio...Quote:
Originally Posted by trevor
Those Add-a-Fuse units are a stop gap measure... For those unable (or unwilling) to get power through the firewall :cool:
Your direct wired version is a much better idea.
I had (well before I purchased it) a elec brake unit so used the spot where they tapped constant power off the big brown wire to the ign barrel. It's under the black sheath but does stick it's head out at the bottom. Constant and doesn't flicker with starting. Powered as direct as possible from the battery inside.
If you dont have electric seats you may have x plug under the seat base, depending on where you mount the
If you don't have elec seats, you may have z plug under the seat that may suffice, if you are going to mount the main unit under the seat this may be a bonus.
It is pretty easy to run cables through the firewall if you have an auto too, there is a nice big grommet in the firewall on the lower LHS of the brake booster( towards the centre of the vehicle).
Again it is always best to run direct off the battery for accessories.
Cheers
Yes i agree if it's already wired direct from the battery why change it - i have a few high current accessories running direct off the battery myself and my CODAN HF will do also. Otherwise Add-a-fuse is a robust professional solution for powering low current draw accessories like a UHFCB. I run mine off Fuse 5 which is unswitched constant power with no measurable voltage drop. Nuff said.... Shalom.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
onebob