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Thread: A couple of battery questions...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor View Post
    Hi michelle. In regards to your battery draining Im not sure but my radio turns off after maybe 1.5-2 hours if the ignition isn't on. I know because when I work on the car I have the radio on. I'm not sure if maybe there is a setting you can change with a nanocom that can make the radio turn off after a certain amount of time. I haven't done this but perhaps the previous owner did.
    That's all I've got on this topic, FYI I run an optima red top and yellow top with a colmbia overland dual batt tray that removes the jack (but requires a bit of modification to fit the ECU in a td5) and those have done me quite well over the years, has 750 CCA if required to jump start.
    Trevor, care to expand on what you had to do with moving the ECU please?
    I'm thinking of duplicating your system as 2 x yellow tops apparently won't quite fit - although I have a photo of 2 strapped together - just not sure if they were shoe horned into a D2 TD5 or other vehicle. Unfortunately too big to attach.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #22
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    Here is mine. Installed a couple of weeks ago. I struggled to get the battery tie down bar to fit and had to modify the holes to get it to work. The two optimas just fit.

    uploadfromtaptalk1345798151430.jpg

    Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toppa View Post
    Here is mine. Installed a couple of weeks ago. I struggled to get the battery tie down bar to fit and had to modify the holes to get it to work. The two optimas just fit.

    uploadfromtaptalk1345798151430.jpg

    Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
    You little beauty - many thanks.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #24
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    Thanks Toppa, thanks Trevor,

    Are the Yellow tops model D34's ? - I'm going with the same Battery tray and are online atm researching the battery options. Just need to decide on a dual battery controller - what have you both chosen ?
    onebob
    Last edited by onebob; 24th August 2012 at 06:41 PM. Reason: clarity

  5. #25
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    Tim, Michelles battery is partly to blame. The dealer had fitted a new battery but it's tiny. I could fit two into the box. Michelle, nothing wrong with century batteries.

    I'm working on rebuilding the original battery box in alloy to fit two yellow tops in there. It'll fit but I need a spare box to make templates off. If anyone has a spare. It's ok for a V* but the TD with the ecu in the box would need to be relocated.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    Thanks Toppa, thanks Trevor,

    Are the Yellow tops model D34's ? - I'm going with the same Battery tray and are online atm researching the battery options. Just need to decide on a dual battery controller - what have you both chosen ?
    onebob
    Optimas are D34's. I used traxides USI-160.

    Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2

  7. #27
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    There's a couple of yellows that'll fit. I think the 34's are what I'm planning on fitting together, just use the 34a (i think it is) that has the terminals reversed for the second.

    I'll second the USI 160, I have fitted it even though I'm yet to set up the second battery. I have replaced the original switch/led with a different setup in the D2's switch blank on the instrument binacle.

  8. #28
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    G'day guys, so my install looks exactly like toppa's with the two group 34 batteries. I didn't modify the battery tray, just the old tray that was there before. As Chris mentioned to me the ECU it is fairly unprotected now and open to the elements to an extent including water, mud and heat. I've been thinking of a way to protect the ECU and all i can come up with is similar to how it was before in that it was protected by the battery/jack tray. I'm thinking of measuring the ECU and perhaps making up a case for it and somehow protect those ever important red and black connectors, maybe a gromet like setup but It's still only in my head at this point lol.

    I haven't had the setup the way it is for a while but light 4x4ing and everyday driving hasn't worried the ECU (knock on wood)

  9. #29
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    Ok new idea; had a quick search and others have used waterproof junction boxes that sparkies use. Now with the dual batt tray it is already a tight fix and I did read about extending the wires for the ECU? If that's the case it could be moved and I would suggest (inside the cabin if possible) but if not then towards the back left (drivers side) of the engine bay by the brake servo. From memory there seems to be a bit of space. So relocate it there, put in junction box and silicon it up around wires seals etc and securely attach it somewhere. If possible, it'd be out of the way, protected from heat mud etc and what's best... Piece of mind. Only issue is if the wiring look extenders do exist? I would think they would but haven't seem them. If they are you can be sure I will be doing this job soon

  10. #30
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    yes justin I think the terminals are so small that that the clamps arent making a good connection and so not charging well, that coupled with me not driving it for over 10 days whilst it was unregistered and voila,

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