It's most likely a warped exhaust manifold. Pull the heat shield and check around the manifold for signs of soot and broken studs.
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It's most likely a warped exhaust manifold. Pull the heat shield and check around the manifold for signs of soot and broken studs.
You've just chipped the vehicle...
Its now making boost quicker....
The manifold was 'already' leaking...
Now that you're boosting up quicker / a little more its not the turbo screaming - it will be the manifold squealing between the gasket and the head/manifold.
What makes you so sure the turbo itself is squealing?
The guys at ritters who installed the chiped ecu think its the turbo.. I havent had time yet to look at the exhaust manifold..
And to me it does sound like a bearing noise. Never heard of a manifold screeming..
Do a google search for "td5 manifold squeal". It's often diagnosed as faulty turbo, squealing accessory belt or bearings.
It should be easy to check the bearings. If you pull the intake hose you can check the rotor for play. If it blades touch the housing you have problems. The rotor should spin freely. Expect a bit of slop because the turbo has plain bearings which rely on oil pressure for lubrication. With the motor off there is no oil feed to the bearing and you get play.
Cheers
Paul
Had a look over the exhaust for leaks. Cant see anything suss.. But i did read over my service history and found that the owner b4 me had the manifold machined so maybe it is warped and they tried to fix it insted of replacing..
The other issue i had today is took off flat to the floor. 2 warning lights flashing sports and some other one going to gether. It went away after i stoped and drove off agian.
The book say auto elec isue.. Its a new auto fitted 5k ago so i dono whats up with that.
Probly over heated abit maybe?
Machining is the standard fix for warped manifolds.
M&S can be a range of things not just auto electrical. If you have gone overboard on the chip you could be exceeding the torque limit for the auto for example.
The M & S is exactly that in this case - too much torque through the transmission and its gone into limp mode.
A restart clears it - if it happens a lot, it can be dialled out by a tiny adjustment to the wastegate. Or you can get a later Auto ECU which has slightly better tolerance to high torque readings... (This has a limit still, just more hysteresis..)