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You'd probably have to engineer a weak shear point into the scrub bars so as not to interfere with the crush rate of the crush cans (if you still have them on) The bull bar needs to act as an independant bar and not transfer the load to the sill bars - I'd imagine that's why ARB don't do them.
A hinge at the top and the bottom of the part that rises up from the sill to where it connects to the back of the bar that goes across the top of the wheelarch should be able to take care of that.....
What about a slip joint?
My only concern with a slip joint would be if you had a hard enough side impact the scrub bar may slip out completely which would defeat the purpose of having the scrub bar in the first place.
Its too late for scrub bars for my paintwork but I have the ARB side steps and have had a similar experience when landing on the passenger side step. The side step lifted and damaged the rear door. Is there a way of stiffening the sidesteps by installing some sort of spacer up to the sills?Quote:
Originally Posted by rangie ute on 38''
Not bad, I'd take it a bit higher and more horizontal and in the line between the flare and lower side of the snorkel. What would the options be for fitting with an XRox bar, without the outer bars. I like the idea and have previously made them for others using steam pipe & weld bends cut to the angles. But always had the bullbar suitable.
As for a sliding jpoint, I'd make a clamp for the bar end, with a long sleeve and bolt through in a traditional manner, but the pipe insert have a slot milled into it so it can move. That said prsonally in an impact I think that the bullbar would go back and the side pipes just deform accordingly. They aren't exactly in the plane of the compression force and would probably bow outwards in a direct hit and in an offset impact they would bend with the direction of force.
The D2 relies on a accelerometer/decelerometer for activation rather than switches in the front acting from impact so it shouldn't worry it too much regardless.
yeah they are just roughly sitting on the car in these pics and will have to perfect it,
the reason i started the bend so far back near the gaurd is because the arb bull bars sit so far in that if i run them paralel up to the front then bent it near the bar it then has a big protruding corner sticking out rather than following the lines of the car, it wouldnt be an issue with a bar that came out the side properly