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Thread: NOT theWastegate Actuator operation - the fuel pump!

  1. #1
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    Question NOT theWastegate Actuator operation - the fuel pump!

    Hi all,
    Spent a couple of frustrating days trying to sort out a problem with the Disco - it's basically undriveable at the moment.

    She starts and idles fine when cold, but you've only got to get 50m down the road before you lose all power, and the engine (TD5 Auto) starts running pretty rough. I can get it back home, but at a max of about 20k/hr. It then refuses to idle nicely, it will rev, but gets real rough between about 2k-3k rpm.

    I have:

    • replaced the injector loom as it needed it anyway (there was a small amount of oil in the ecu).


    • checked injector resistances, both hot and cold and all seems pretty consistent
    • replaced fuel filter and air filter
    • checked wastegate arm (moves freely)
    • bypassed wastegate modulator
    • Nanocom shows MAF seems to be working fine, and there are no fault codes registering, lots of cylinder imbalances, up to +/-20, nothing stands out.

    My current thinking is either a fuel issue of some sort, or perhaps the wastegate actuator. I can get it to move a bit with vice grips, but only just. If I attach it to an air compressor, it starts to move at about 200kpa (best guess), and then moves freely as pressure rises.


    Nanocom tells me the boost pressure (while driving) gets up to a max of 185kpa, which seems low. So it seems that the turbo doesn't provide enough boost for the actuator to start working at all. I don't know if this is because of a lack of fuel due to a leak, whether the ecu is cutting fuel for some reason, or if there is a leak in the air hoses after the turbo.


    And the big question that I'm looking for:

    Does anyone know at what pressure the wastegate actuator should start to move at? Can these things fail in a way that they become stiff but not stuck?

    I should add, this problem started suddenly, on the highway. With half a tank of diesel used. Been driving it daily before that with no dramas.

  2. #2
    justfishing Guest
    Hello,
    Have you checked the hose just below the turbo outlet this can come apart and block the air off, so no go any more, your turbo actuator should move very freely. Have you checked for fuel leaks, or put a new filter on lately ?? If you had oil down at the plug of the ECU then it will be inside the ECU so you will have to take off the covers and clean it out and rivet back together don't forget to seal it with something.... hope this helps
    Ian

  3. #3
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    Thanks Ian,
    Yes new fuel filter. No known fuel leaks, but I'm taking a gander at the fuel pump in the morning.
    Haven't had the ECU apart. Torx bolts I think? Will try that too.

    Intercooler hoses new in the last 12 months, but will pull them off and have a closer look as well.

  4. #4
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    So, started with the fuel pump. It's getting a healthy 12V, and is doing nothing with it - dead quiet. I can unplug the connector on the fuel pump, and the engine still runs. Next step is to go for a drive with the pump unplugged.

    I gather that the engine must have just enough pull on the fuel to keep going in some marginal way even without the pump?

    Any comments on whether to go LR or aftermarket on these things? Quite a price difference. I could buy two aftermarket pumps for the price of one original, and have a spare on hand!

  5. #5
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    Smile not the wastegate

    A few weeks ago I encountered similar problems.....Fuel pump was very noisy....motor ran rough ...got to end of street and ran out of noise in front end all together...Noisy pump was blamed on aerated fuel changed injector washers and sealing "o" rings....would not start...new fuel filter same result...new exhaust studs as some were broken new ex-gasket no difference ....eventually started after recharging battery....went for test run found a big red roo had gotten into fuel system....vehicle went bounding up the road.....adjustment of modulator valve (backed almost 25mm on screw) sorted that problem....previous owner had adjusted it in an attempt to gain more boost when perhaps he should have fixed ex-manifold leaks.... then the bomb hit.... Started up ran rough as a bag of pumpkins ...stopped restarted ran reasonable to end of street (400)metres stopped ....No noise at all towed it back .....fuel pump cactus...Fitted new after market pump...Started first hit and has run beautifully ever since...In fact best it has ever been....hope this gives food for thought.....Peter

  6. #6
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    Thanks Pete,
    Where did you get your fuel pump? Which make did you get?

    I've been looking and have come across LR, Bearmach, AllMakes4x4 and 'generic' so far, all at startling different prices. The one in there is made by VDO.

  7. #7
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    I ordered mine from LR Direct UK. Around 240quid IIRC plus postage but I also got a whole lot of other stuff (crank sensor, MAF etc) as well so made the postage even cheaper pro rata. 45 quid for postage total. It was at my doorstep in four days.


    And yes, running out of puff about 100m down the road is a sure sign of a fuel pump issue. I've had niggling troubles with it over the last 6 months, turned out to be a dodgy earth (I've started a thread or two on it).

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinelli View Post
    Thanks Pete,
    Where did you get your fuel pump? Which make did you get?

    I've been looking and have come across LR, Bearmach, AllMakes4x4 and 'generic' so far, all at startling different prices. The one in there is made by VDO.
    Bought my pump from British Off Road at Forest Glenn North of Brisbane , $448.00 as against $695 for genuine....Peter

  9. #9
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    Right, fuel pump (Bearmach) on its way. Supplier says I need to hand bleed the fuel pump before starting it up. Mentions using a vacuum pump to pull the diesel through the system.

    Is this right? I know that the system self bleeds when I replace the fuel filter.

  10. #10
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    Did the five tap three minute thing myself and worked just fine...

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