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Thread: ABS electric control unit

  1. #1
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    ABS electric control unit

    I'm in the process of saving for a CDL kit for my 1999 D2, already have internals. The kit I have in mind allows me to lock the CDL in both high & low range. I have read the threads about cutting the wire, but also have seen it reccommended to purchase & fit an "ABS electric control unit, anti-lock brakes, Wabco, SRD500070 ". Would someone be able to tell a layman like me why this is a good thing, and those who have it fitted, is it a good thing. Thank you, Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

  2. #2
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    In the pre-facelift D2's the SLABS ECU will disable the ETC, and operate ABS, EBD and HDC at reduced performance levels. This was apparently done to protect the transmission from damage while driving with the CDL engaged.

    The "wire cut" method of keeping ETC with the CDL locked simply cuts the wire that connects the diff lock switch to the diff lock sensor input on the SLABS ECU. This prevents the SLABS ECU detecting the locked CDL and stops the ECU selecting the reduced operation mode. The SLABS ECU basically operates as if the CDL is not locked.

    The SRD500070 ECU was originally shipped with the MY04 D2a's and is programmed to alter the operation of the ETC, ABS, EBD and HDC to accommodate the locked CDL. This means you can operate the CDL without cutting the wire and it remains operational.

    The changes that I'm aware of in the SRD500070 ECU are:

    - Improved ETC programming
    - Improved ABS programming
    - Improved tolerances for low ABS sensor output
    - Programming for correct operation with locked CDL.
    - Slight improvement to brake pedal feel

    The SRD500070 is also the recommended replacement part for all D2's for any ABS faults that cannot be traced to wiring, ABS Sensors or Modulator.

    The downside is you need to copy the settings from your existing ECU to ensure correct programming of Coils/SLS, ride heights for SLS equipped vehicles etc. This is easily achieved if you have access to a Nanocom.

    I have had an SRD500070 installed in my D2 for about 12 months, after initially using the wire-cut based on recommendations on the forum and Urban Panzer's website. The upgraded ECU is substantial all round improvement over the older version. First thing I recall noticing was the better brake pedal feel, which was not something I'd anticipated. The brakes had been good previously, but there seemed to be a slight increase in firmness and less of the temptation to take a second bite. With the CDL locked the ETC seems to trigger less readily than with the wire cut. I haven't been in a situation where this lessened tendency to activate has resulted in any apparent increase in wheel spin. This suggests to me the ETC programming used for the unlocked CDL (and by definition when using CDL with the wire cut) is activating a lower threshold than necessary.

    ABS on loose surfaces seems to be better behaved than previous and will definitely allow the wheels to lock once speed has dropped below about 15-20kph. It's still a bit hair-raising when you have one side of the car in gravel and the other on bitumen.

    I personally think the overall improvement is well worth the expenditure (somewhere between $100-200 depending on what is up on ebay). At this point I think I'm the only AULROain to have done the ECU swap, so unfortunately there is no-one else on the forum that can speak from a "before and after" perspective on the same vehicle.

    I'd point out that of the forum posts on UK and US forums by those who have done the upgrade the consensus is that there is clear and worthwhile improvement. One person described the differences and "night and day". I wouldn't go to that extreme but the improvements are immediately apparent, and I wouldn't hesitate to do the swap again.

    cheers
    Paul

  3. #3
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    Thank you for that detailed description, it sounds like the way to go. I don't really understand a lot about the engine management systems, but getting an updated SLABS ECU seems a bit better than cutting a wire to fool the computer, however , it's all Dutch to me. Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

  4. #4
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    There is a mob in the US (Miami British) that have them listed on ebay for $60US but only ship to US addresses and don't answer correspondence asking if they will ship to AUS. If you can arrange to use one of those US shipping address services this would be the cheapest way to obtain.

    There is another crew that have them listed, and I seem to recall I bought mine from them last year. They run to about $165Aus shipped. You'll often find ebay sellers that list as UK or US only are happy to ship to AU if you ask. If you have some time and don't mind scanning the ebay.com and ebay.co.uk listings you'll be able to pick up cheaper. It depends how urgent the need and how patient you are.


    cheers
    Paul

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the heads up on the link Paul.....I didn't have any patience mate, so I bought the unit....

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post

    The downside is you need to copy the settings from your existing ECU to ensure correct programming of Coils/SLS, ride heights for SLS equipped vehicles etc. This is easily achieved if you have access to a Nanocom.



    cheers
    Paul
    Just want to make sure of one thing, Paul, my vehicle does not have SLS, does that mean no programming needed, just old out, new in, no problems? thanks, Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob10 View Post
    Just want to make sure of one thing, Paul, my vehicle does not have SLS, does that mean no programming needed, just old out, new in, no problems? thanks, Bob
    If the "new" unit you are putting is actually used, and was programmed for an SLS equipped vehicle, you'll get a warning light on the dash for the SLS.

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