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3rd March 2013, 10:56 AM
#41
Penrite still make a synthetic ATF that's basically the same formulation just updated. Just had to redo mine and with a refill is shifting even better.
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3rd March 2013, 12:57 PM
#42
Well I was wondering about the oil. According to the service records up to the 200000k s it had always had the castrol oil as per the book in it, then the PO had it serviced b4 he sold it at MRs and they changed to valvoline synthetic . Was sorta thinking it may have flushed deposits out and gooing up solenoids and such. The thoughts of BOR was to give it a service and see what transpired.
Given your experiences it cannot hurt to try. certainly cheaper than a 3k rebuild
\
Now I just have to wait for the waters to subside and get some oils and filters!
thanks to all for suggestions
Will keep you informed on the progress .
Cheers Scott
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3rd March 2013, 07:05 PM
#43
Had a similar problem as you discribe with my TD5 auto, problem was traced to low voltage as my second battery had collapsed (replaced the battery and all returned to normal) not sure if this helps.
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3rd March 2013, 08:07 PM
#44
Thanks lost, but I have a new battery in it before this started but that is interesting to know. Just confirms how voltage sensitive the D2's are with their workings! 
Cheers Scott
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3rd March 2013, 08:22 PM
#45
New battery doesn't necessarily mean good battery
It's not all that uncommon for them to be low on charge, get it load tested just to make sure
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11th March 2013, 03:58 PM
#46
OK Finally got the auto fluid changed!!! First drive and its all good, balked a couple of times first up but after a 50km drive it is shifting smooth and not refusing to engage as before
The change went smoothly apart from a couple of interesting findings.
According to the service record oil was changed and filter at 208000, Valvoline syn,the vechile has now done 225000kms and the oil is blacker than a toymotor at 10000!!!
prior to that the only other services was at 25000 and 87000. Hard to believe it would have had that much buildup.
The other finding was the filter to auto body O ring was displaced and crimped on install. So much for pro services
Am going to change again in 500kms to get it cleaner.
Cheers Scott
Last edited by schuy1; 11th March 2013 at 03:59 PM.
Reason: corrections
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11th March 2013, 04:50 PM
#47
If it's that bad I'd give it maybe 5000k's (personally I'd do 1000) and change again and repeat until clean.
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11th March 2013, 09:52 PM
#48
I was thinking 500 then again in a 1000 or so as it is so dirty. I am just using castrol D111 to flush it. When I think it is clean and working properly I may change over to TranmaxZ. Dont want to spend heaps on flushing with a premium item
And up to the service b4 I got it it had always had D111 in it it seems. Maybe why it was so dirty! But yes going to change it a few times anyway.
Cheers Scott
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12th March 2013, 11:26 AM
#49
A drain and refill only replaces about 55% of the fluid, so even if you do repeated changes at short intervals you never end up with 100% clean fluid:
Old fluid remaining (vehicle driven to fully blend new/old between changes)
First Change: 45%
Second Change: 20%
Third Change: 9%
Fourth Change: 4%
Fifth Change: 1.8%
Obviously beyond the 3rd-4th change the value of doing more changes becomes increasingly marginal. 
I reckon you'd want to do at least two changes with the fluid you intend to use to get the full benefits.
cheers
Paul
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12th March 2013, 11:50 AM
#50
Thanks Paul, yes I did some figuring and came up with about the same idea. Given how black the oil was I rekon 2 will be min, the cost of a few changes is low given the cost of a rebulid.
Cheers Scott
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