Page 3 of 9 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 87

Thread: Strange goings on with auto

  1. #21
    redrovertdi Guest
    Could be the gear selector switch on the side of the box, was on my fathers and when replaced all the problems stopped[lights flashing and going into limp mode-would always reset when stopped and restarted], air con condensation drips on the switch block

  2. #22
    schuy1 Guest
    Yeah I know they are not an off tar tire pattern, But as some1 that likes to call an"earth removal tool" a D7 I just find it silly they stamp A/T and M&S on them!! If they put HT or suchlike would be fine.
    Ahh well as soon as I get a minute some Pirelli ATR's are going on. bit more gravel orientated .Still not a mud tire by any stretch of the imaginings but nice and quiet as road running is the D2's prime directive.

    Have ruled the auto switch out as the culprit

  3. #23
    schuy1 Guest
    Hi all, Had forgot about my auto problems until a few days ago when some problems returned! To start I will say I have stripped all the covering from the harness that goes over the transfer case and there is no bare wiring.
    the symptoms now are hesitation to move off when D or R is selected, Almost as if I have it in N instead. It also would not change up from 3rd until I manually selected 3 then D again, This was at 90+kmh. It also dropped out of lockup at 90kmh+.
    Have rechecked wiring connections, connected the Nanacom, No faults, So has me puzzled with its behavior. Am a little concerned it may drop out totally and not reengage! Any ideas welcome!

    Cheers Scott

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just re-read this and so...

    A few years ago I blew both head gaskets and so also went the liners (V8 obviously) but following that I had a similar situation where under load (hills rather than hard acceleration) it would shift 1/2/3 then on trying 4 it'd grab a fist full of revs, slow right down and start off at 1 again. Repeat until at top of hill, no a good experience in peak hour traffic doing 10km/h up hill. Even in Sydney it travels a bit quicker.

    Symptoms were straight out must be an auto issue, didn't so it before I pulled it apart etc. So off to auto specialists, who drove it and all said clutches/T/C clutch/valve body etc. So out it came and $3000- later back in it went. Test drive down road to nearest hill and guess what.

    So I buy a $200- diag tool and drive around creating a danger to other road users but it did allow me to watch the engine functions.

    Turns out that under load the MAF was shutting down, so ECU sees no air entering engine so says "stop fuel" then O2 sensors are saying but here's all this unburnt O2 coming through "add fuel and ignition". So everything was stuck in a perpetual fight and while this happened the auto just said "I'm outa here" and went into limp mode.

    $200- for new MAF and problem solved. But I do have a new driveline.

    I know the TD5 will be slightly different but it took almost another 6 months to locate that so it might be worth trying a known MAF or some other sensors swapped in (one at a time) to see what happens. Mine was also in the 80k+ range (until it stopped and started again) and wouldn't happen on the flat with foot to the floor (and that goes to 5000rpm in each gear now).

    The harness repair in the service records could be an injector harness. You diesel boys like to change them like underwear I understand.

  5. #25
    schuy1 Guest
    You are pretty much on the money there with those symptoms and yes I have noticed it acting a bit differently up hills, more so if I give it some right plimsoll! I allso noticed, after I posted this , Freedriver's post regarding his and it could also be low oil from that description, Had not thought of it as there is no leaks at all. yes it IS a L/Rover! the auto was serviced 12000k ago at MR Auto. The service record was for the injector harness
    So..... spare MAF's up this way compete savagely with the hens and rocking horse's for limelight. Looks like I will have to get a newie and try, unless I can find the thread on testing it.
    Helluva roundabout way for you to get driveline renewed though

    Cheers Scott

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Murgon
    Posts
    495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by schuy1 View Post
    You are pretty much on the money there with those symptoms and yes I have noticed it acting a bit differently up hills, more so if I give it some right plimsoll! I allso noticed, after I posted this , Freedriver's post regarding his and it could also be low oil from that description, Had not thought of it as there is no leaks at all. yes it IS a L/Rover! the auto was serviced 12000k ago at MR Auto. The service record was for the injector harness
    So..... spare MAF's up this way compete savagely with the hens and rocking horse's for limelight. Looks like I will have to get a newie and try, unless I can find the thread on testing it.
    Helluva roundabout way for you to get driveline renewed though

    Cheers Scott
    Seems like the D2s in the North and South Burnett have caught some auto transmission disease....

    I've had an intermittent issue with my auto that, although different to yours, is equally perplexing. And with the $$$ involved in mucking about with transmissions I'm not too keen to play a game of "can you pull thie transmission out and tell me what might be wrong with it please?".

    Mine has am occasional rough upshift from 2nd to 3rd. It'll do everything else I ever ask of it without issue but sometimes it'll shift into 3rd with an almighty bang!

    It's as if it tries to hang onto 2nd for a couple of hundred RPM more than it needs and then doesn't back off to make the shift. Someone suggested it may be a shift solenoid that is on the blink. I probably should budget for the inevitable.

    Anyway, I didn't post this to hijack your thread Scott.

    I saw you may be chasing a MAF.

    I am too as it happens. I just got a quote from TRS as below:

    I can supply a new vdo type sensor cost will be $160.00 inc gst freight via express post is $16.00


    Regards

    Scott Dallimore
    T. R. Spares Pty Ltd
    45 Fairford Rd
    Padstow NSW 2211
    Phone +61 2 9709 5611
    I know how hard it can be to source parts when you're out of town.

    I hope you get it sorted soon.
    Last edited by OffTrack; 21st February 2013 at 06:03 AM. Reason: added quoting to make it clear this is a quote.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Murgon
    Posts
    495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...r-numbers.html

    Post #2 references another thing to check.

    And this one too:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...f-stuffed.html

    That's my good deed for the week sorted!

    Best of luck Scott.

  8. #28
    schuy1 Guest
    must be all this water over the last few weeks!!! That is a pretty good price for a MAF I think. Will probably get 1 , even if that is not the cause a spare of something that can shut the noise down inconveniently a long way from a workshop is good planning
    Thanks for the research
    Cheers Scott

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Camp Hill, Brisbane
    Posts
    218
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Scott,

    If looking for a cheap MAF, try:
    F00C2G2027 | eBay
    plug and play.
    I also did the O2 sensors at the same time (AU Falcon - $42 ea for Bosch parts) and it hasn't run better for a long while. Also had M&S + limp home on a recent trip with no faults found by the auto experts.
    HTH
    Steve
    02 D2 Auto V8

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You've got to watch the ebay MAF's. Most are pattern parts and so are as reliable as finding a spare MAF in Eldsvold.

    With the auto levels, the guy who built mine suggested slightly changing the fill technique. Fill as per the instructions BUT have the front up on ramps or stands about 8". Gets a bit more oil in, and doesn't effect it. He builds 4 & 6HP's for drag applications in "stock" falcons and has them running up to 650HP and even set one up with a manual pneumatic shift that fairly thumps it into gears and doesn't have failures. Mind you he also hand build every component in his TC's so he's a bit of an artisan.

    I just drained mine after 25000k's while it was at the panel beaters and was crystal clear.

    Steve, do you have the number for the Bosch O2 sensors? Scott's shouldn't have them as it's a TD5.

Page 3 of 9 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!