as the manifolds have to come off refer to the thread about manifold removal.
that'll give you a starting point.
So everything is pointing to a head gasket. Although low K's and never been over 100 deg the coolant is going missing for short while now.
now its a 200km trip and 1/3rd a header tank of coolant gone with no leaks in any of the usual culprits water pump (seals or o rings) fuel cooler, oil cooler welch plug header tank underside or any other place i could get a torch to. the system is not pressurising ( i have attached a bottle to the header o/flow- bone dry!, only a slight Fssst when undoing the cap when cold).
so while this gets attended to (outa my league this job) what else for prevention?
- get rid of the black goo in the inlet (egr already gone)
- will upgrade the I/C to D2a (sittin in the shed waiting)
- injector harness
- renew oil cooler rubberhose
- renew drive belt
Anything else O knowing ones?
as the manifolds have to come off refer to the thread about manifold removal.
that'll give you a starting point.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Al, check head locating dowels as well, change over to steel?
Regards
Robbo.
I found with the fuel cooler o-rings that it only leaked at start up from cold, at normal running temp it didn't leak.now its a 200km trip and 1/3rd a header tank of coolant gone with no leaks in any of the usual culprits water pump (seals or o rings) fuel cooler
I suspect once the thermostat opened & full flow there was less pressure being pushed the the fuel cooler as it would stop leaking at normal temp.
simple check if you haven't already.
Best of luck.
Looking at your list I'd add for a TD5....
If your doing the belt think about doing the idler/adjuster bearings.
They tend to seeze burning the belt, these belts don't just bust.
New exhuast studs and nuts are a must IMO.
Must look into the modifed setup JC uses.
Check the treads in the rotary filter, ideal time to fitt hellicoils.
Whats the fuel regulator block like?
It's got to come off so if it's weaping nows the time.
There is also access to the starter with the maniflods and head off so does it need starter contacts?
Does the pastic conduit need replacing?
1 over the top of the gearbox for the oil switch.
1 accros the front of the head held with 2 clips.
If your doing the I/C as the radiator is undone think about getting it "rodded".
I've spent enough of your money now, I'll move on![]()
Water Pump
A couple more
Replace or rod the radiator.
Check the oil cooler for corrosion
The car sat in the garage for 2 weeks while i holidayed in the states.
On return there was a very small amount of coolant leak ( 10 cent piece size stain) on the cardboard under the car near the RF tyre.
traced it to the underside of the header tank,very small evidence of coolant around the hose end,,very very slight. the main hose clamp had obviously lost tension but under operating conditions leaked a lot more under temp/pressure. and hard to spot cuase of evaporation and dark paint.
new clamp fitted, 200 km drive and no loss of coolant.
Another example of make absolutely sure problems are not the simple ones before spending the bucks,, I had it booked in expecting new head gasket.
cheers.
ps search long and hard for leaks if you are losing coolant...long and hard!
Lucky bugger!!, you not the DiscoThe car sat in the garage for 2 weeks while i holidayed in the states.
Glad it was a simple fix
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