D2 TD5 COOLANT CONFUSION

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Originally Posted by BIG O

Hmmm ,,,,okay ,,I won't try and argue with somone of your experience Dave. I guess he can read about the problems associated with OAT coolant and why HOAT (hybrid OAT) coolant was introduced himself.

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we're not talking hoat we're talking red (oat) or green ( traditional ethyl glycol)

lets not just limit our options to just ethyl glycol or oat If we really want to make sure we cover all the possible options that he could put in the engine.

HOAT
soluable oil
light machine oils
water
sea water
diesel
hydracaunoil (or however its spelt and pronounced)
skydrol


IMHO HOAT was introduced because its compatible with both OAT and the traditional green stuff which makes it less of a headache to use and is whole lot less maintenance intensive if you mix it with either of the two typically incompatible coolants.

What I use in an engine is as simple as looking at what the manual says and the manual sayeth OAT. If using the manufacturers spec item causes a problem and using something else masks it then your not actually fixing the problem you're just hiding it until it comes back bigger and uglier to bite you in the tail at a later point.

Short cutting correct maintenance might save you a little money in the short term but its going to cost you or someone else down the line in the long run.

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Short cutting correct maintenance might save you a little money in the short term but its going to cost you or someone else down the line in the long run.

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Just because someone Prefers to use HAT instead OAT coolant hardly puts them in this category.
I just fitted a new radiator, fuel cooler orings, flushed the system & used Nulon Green. (HAT) Which is more than compatible with the TD5 & alloy Radiator
Im not going to replace every oring , hose & gasket just to use RED OAT coolant.

Im not saying all RED OAT coolant will do this but
DEX-COOL did eat the gaskets.
Litigation has linked it with intake manifold gasket failures in (GM's) 3.1L and 3.4L engines, and with other failures in 3.8L and 4.3L engines.

Please don't think I am disrespectful to those with far wider experience on LR.
So Ethyl Glycol old coolant technology is poisonous.
OAT not as old technology is not as poisonous but leaks.
HOAT was introduced more recently to overcome the problems resulting from mixing both. HOAT was mentioned on this post before me.
Still say flush properly and the Nulon long life green at 50:50 mixture with distilled water ,Grant is/has used will not put him at risk and if still worried about the concentration it would pay to get it checked.
But my experience is limited to ownership and servicing 2 Td5 D2's and 1 300 Tdi D1 3door .

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Originally Posted by roverv8

Just because someone Prefers to use HAT instead OAT coolant hardly puts them in this category.
I just fitted a new radiator, fuel cooler orings, flushed the system & used Nulon Green. (HAT) Which is more than compatible with the TD5 & alloy Radiator
Im not going to replace every oring , hose & gasket just to use RED OAT coolant.

Im not saying all RED OAT coolant will do this but
DEX-COOL did eat the gaskets.
Litigation has linked it with intake manifold gasket failures in (GM's) 3.1L and 3.4L engines, and with other failures in 3.8L and 4.3L engines.

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Dexcool, which was formulated and made by Texaco and is the same as/identical to the stuff Land Rover OAT contained 2-eha in it's add package which is a plasticiser.

Has anyone ever had a problem with a TD5 using the genuine stuff ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BIG O

Please don't think I am disrespectful to those with far wider experience on LR.
So Ethyl Glycol old coolant technology is poisonous.
OAT not as old technology is not as poisonous but leaks.
HOAT was introduced more recently to overcome the problems resulting from mixing both. HOAT was mentioned on this post before me.
Still say flush properly and the Nulon long life green at 50:50 mixture with distilled water ,Grant is/has used will not put him at risk and if still worried about the concentration it would pay to get it checked.
But my experience is limited to ownership and servicing 2 Td5 D2's and 1 300 Tdi D1 3door .

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Land Rover/Caltex OAT, in fact most OAT's and most all 'conventional' coolants use ethylene glycol as their anti-freeze base.

PG based coolants are in the minority and I wish I hadn't mentioned the Cummins stuff now, I only use it as it's more local and cheaper.....

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Originally Posted by rick130

Dexcool, which was formulated and made by Texaco and is the same as/identical to the stuff Land Rover OAT contained 2-eha in it's add package which is a plasticiser.

Has anyone ever had a problem with a TD5 using the genuine stuff ?

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Don't believe me? I see where your going, it only effects GM, Im not taking the chance thanks.
Read the section
Organic acid technology

Antifreeze - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Originally Posted by roverv8

Don't believe me? I see where your going, it only effects GM, Im not taking the chance thanks.
Read the section
Organic acid technology

Antifreeze - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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WTF ?
Please don't read into what I've written with stuff that isn't there.

Dexcool was a known issue with those engines., but there's millions of engines that have used it worldwide without issue.

All I'm pointing out is that the 2-eha was only really used by Texaco/Caltex in their formulation, other OAT's don't use it or use it in the same %'s.

GM reformulated the silicon 'bead' in the inlet manifold gasket, so if you use silicon anywhere coolant can touch, I'd be worried too, otherwise it's not an issue.

and FWIW Chrysler switches to OAT antifreeze for longer service interval

Thats why i said

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Im not saying all RED OAT coolant will do this but

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Label on this early production 2013 Dodge Dart coolant reservoir says it’s an “OAT Coolant,” but it’s a special type. It should not be mixed with the previously used G-05 silicated coolant or versions of the “DexCool” recommended for GM and Ford products.

So it can't even be mixed with Hoat or (hat)

I don't know whats in the current batch of RED OAT off the shelf at auto shops, but i know the Green LL Nulon is safe & im not taking any short cuts on my maintenance using it.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

we're not talking hoat we're talking red (oat) or green ( traditional ethyl glycol)

lets not just limit our options to just ethyl glycol or oat If we really want to make sure we cover all the possible options that he could put in the engine.

HOAT
soluable oil
light machine oils
water
sea water
diesel
hydracaunoil (or however its spelt and pronounced)
skydrol


IMHO HOAT was introduced because its compatible with both OAT and the traditional green stuff which makes it less of a headache to use and is whole lot less maintenance intensive if you mix it with either of the two typically incompatible coolants.

What I use in an engine is as simple as looking at what the manual says and the manual sayeth OAT. If using the manufacturers spec item causes a problem and using something else masks it then your not actually fixing the problem you're just hiding it until it comes back bigger and uglier to bite you in the tail at a later point.

Short cutting correct maintenance might save you a little money in the short term but its going to cost you or someone else down the line in the long run.

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Probably my poor generic terminology but I am talking about HOAT green coolant as in the Nulon LLC. It seems that HOAT is at least a bit more compatible with other coolants and has a diverse metals compatibility. My biggest issue is I don't know what the last coolant used actually was apart from it was mostly water with 2.5lt of inhibitor. Doesn't say what though on the service docket. It did make the coolant look greenish.
I'm going to flush it as well as I can and go with HOAT.
Will flushing it firstly from the top hose with the bottom drain open and then from the expansion tank do or do I need to flush the tranny oil cooler etc separately. I saw someone had said somewhere that the coolants hadnt mixed through these circuits and red was still in them. I doubt there is any red floating around as a new rad was done 20k km ago and you would think the rest was flushed out then.

I borrow a pipe arrangement from my local indi LR guy. It has a water hose and compressed air connections. It fits into the top hose and top of the radiator. His allows you to run the engine while it flushed. Have your heater on also and if you are taking the short hose to the oil cooler off that will help two but don't have the engine running if its off. Plenty written in here on how to bleed the system when re filling .