Checked. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
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Checked. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
Still need to re-adjust the bar but got the indicators and parkers hooked up this afternoon. The indicators were definitely the easiest place to tap in, and judging by the pre-existing damage from scotch-locks it was where the PO had taken the indicator feed.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1353304749
On the drivers side the earth wire had a grand total of three strands that were still intact. :mad:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1353304853
I've used the wire tap technique described on this page to access the existing harness:
http://bolty.net/2010/11/15/how-to-s...tapping-wires/
While it's not something you can easily remove, there is no way I'll get a dodgy connection failing at these points.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1353304853
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1353304853
I was able to get heat shrink onto 2 out of the three wires by releasing the connectors from the plug housing on the indicator.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1353304173
Looks good, interesting to see it without the hoops :)
I just passed a toymotor in town with an ARB steel bar, minus the outer hoops.
Looked pretty butchered.
Are the tabs above the hi-lift inserts for UHF antennas or something different?
Cheers
Muppet
They are the washer jets ;)
The shot isn't taken from the best angle and my iPhone camera lens is so badly scratched it looks like it has permanent fuzzy focus. :D
Ahh, washer jets, thought they were a bit too far towards the centre for those.Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
Do the headlight guards have any impact on the washer jets?
And they're still better photos than my old nokia takes :p
Advantage of that is it doesn't shatter the screen when I drop it ;)
Cheers :D
muppet
Nice job Paul - I soldered my wires as well but didn't bother with relays - i just ignore the trailer indicator and if that stops flashing i must have a blown indicator lamp eh! but if that bothers you just put in LEDS and that'll kill the trailer indicator.
I like the bar without the hoops - my brother bought one made that way, TJM made them for the USA market but wouldn't do a 'one off' so he waited more than a year for a USA order to come through and TJM increased the production run by 1 and now he has his bar:D There are differences though like no indicators and no high lift jack slots.
onebob
Nice looking bar without the hoops. I wonder what it would look like with the centre hoop left there (and how strong the centre heep would be by itself).
Cheers,
Nova
Just having a look at the Electrical Library description of the indicator function to see how they were hooked up, and I discovered that there are 2 x 1 ohm resistors in the passenger fuse box that are used as a reference for determining if current drawn by the indicators is correct. Each resistor is connected between 2 pins on the IDM so it should be possible to replace them with a suitable value for the extra globes, or possibly even LEDs all-round. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
ADD: Obviously this is going to be less than straight forward....
Nicked from another site: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/11/457.jpg
This shows the guts of the passenger fuse box. I'm assuming the upright board plugged into the base is the Intelligent Driver Module (IDM). The resistors are possibly on the underside, but it appears there are two boards. LED globes on the bullbar is definitely the quick solution. :)
To add load for LED's and correct the trailer indicator the load has to be in the order of 21watts or approx 50ohms.For each circuit. A resister of that size generates a lot of heat in operation so a safer idea is to use these sorts of things. I added 2 on the defender when I changed the rear lights on the tray over to LED and added LED bullbar indicators. All good now ass per factory! :) ..LED Load Resistor (Pair) - Stops fast indicators | eBay
Cheers Scott
Correction it should be 8 ohms not 50!! have no idea how I got that in there! :-/
The only problem with the load resistors is that the bulb failure indication ceases to function.
BTW You can buy those resistors for about $5.00 each from electronics suppliers.
And FWIW I have a sneaking suspicion the metal bars in the pics are the "resistors". Not a simple fix in that case.