So Change the tension-er and the belt and i should be right you reckon?
is there a way to know the bearings are shot ?
like when i take the belt off how can i check the other pulleys to make sure there all good and don't need a replace?
thanks :)
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So Change the tension-er and the belt and i should be right you reckon?
is there a way to know the bearings are shot ?
like when i take the belt off how can i check the other pulleys to make sure there all good and don't need a replace?
thanks :)
I'd remove the belt and spin the fan and tensioner pulleys by hand, they should spin smooth/quiet and roll for a second or two. Check they have very little play. Check all pulleys, only the ac compressor pulley should spin freely all others will have resistance to spin but should feel smooth. hope this helps.
Jesus...I wouldn't drive another inch with it looking like that. Change the tensioner:):) pulley ..it comes with a new tensioner ..laughs.. The is no way to change the bearing alone in that particular pulley .
okay so its definitely! the tensioner pulled it out today ( you don't wanna even know the way i went about getting it out.) the pulley was fused to the tensioner it wouldn't move at all there's shrapnel coming out the side definitely broken.
so maybe i pulled out the alternator at the same time :angel: and when i took off the brake fluid vacuum pump off the alternator lot of oil comes out of the shaft where they connect i cant see a seal or o-ring there to keep that oil in did i loose it or is there no seal there? does anyone know?
yes i did go about changing the tensioner in the wrong way :)
There is/was an O-ring on the pipe fitting for the oil supply from the head.
i dont think i was clear enough sorry what i mean is
is there a seal between the alternator
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/580.jpg
and the vacum pump
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/581.jpg
or is it just a mating metal surface because i cannot for the life of me find any seal and never saw one come off but im being told by some people there should be one?
its ok answered my own question in the rave manual
thanks
Refit 1. Clean mating faces of alternator and vacuum pump.
Assuming that it's the same as my 2000 model TD5, if you remove the bolt that holds the pulley to the tensioner, you will find that the pulley is held together by 3 rivets. It is possible to drill these rivets out, then separate the halves of the pulley. You will find that a new bearing is around $10, and is a common unit held in stock in bearing suppliers. You will also need 3 low profile nuts and nylocs. Total cost for me was about $15, much better than the $200ish quoted from the stealer for a complete tensioner assembly. It's a little fiddly, but easily doable with a little time.Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG O
I'm gonna give it a go cheers..always used off the shelf bearings for the other pulley ..so why not cool..
Bizarrely enough they are the same bearing as in the rear axle of an early 2000's Honda XR600... I'd suggest that you buy a Japanese high speed bearing, they last longer, am on my second replacement in 331kQuote:
Originally Posted by BIG O