Thread: the dreaded back door

Hi everyone
I have had my series 2 for 10 years now, and i have had serious problems opening my rear door during remote trips for the first 8 years. My fix was to get the biggest sheet metal rubber grommet i could, approx 70 mm, remove the rear numberplate drill a hole with a hole saw under the left hand side or curb side of the door skin avoiding the reinforcing framework. then using a long screwdriver manually lifting the little tab in the locking mechanism that causes all the grief, it also makes it easy to clean and lubricate. I then insert the grommet and replace the numberplate and you cant see a thing. i carry a long fine screwdriver in the glove box as I have a cargo barrier. I have done a Simpson crossing, and the Binns track since and have had to remove the number plate a few times, a very easy quick job. The old method before that was to drive over bad corrugations to shake up the mechanism as discussed on previous forums.

i managed to get the door open again, having removed barrier!.
pulled the actuator out and gave it a good degrease and dry and lubricate, replaced all the bits after checking operation and shut the door, then would not open!
so checking again the exterior handle connects to a rod on the inside, there are two holes on the handle bracket so i moved the rod to the other hole, all works.
i will be buying a new actuator (pn# FQR100570) and replacing soon.

try a tension spring first cheap and simple

Originally Posted by trog

try a tension spring first cheap and simple

which one?, there are a few in the actuator but i could not see how to pull it apart.

from the long arm connected to the grab handle . i used a spring about an inch long hooked one end into the spare hole then cable tie directly above into the door. the extra tension in the sping seems to snap the mechanism , not the weak feeling the original gives.sorry i have no pictures to guide