Aftermarket TD5 exhaust manifolds

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Originally Posted by Islandnomad

Not sure what the best type would be, suggestions?

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There is very few people who have tried any of the aftermarket options, so at this stage is still a bit of a gamble.

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

Does anyone have the guide on 'de-webbing' the factory manifold?

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If you search, you will find plenty of information elsewhere about that.
There is a strong school of thought though that the manifold should only warp once. So once it's warped if you have the face surface redone you should be able to leave the webs and they will help keep it in place.

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

And has anyone tried ceramic coating the manifold and/or the exhaust housing of the turbo to drop in-bay temps (this'd probably be more adventageous for firewall mounted DBS?)

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I believe that ceramic coating will help, but it's hard to do on used items as they've got to be cleaned thoroughly so that it will stick. Ideally you want to get a brand new manifold coated straight away before fitting.

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

Does anyone have the guide on 'de-webbing' the factory manifold?


And has anyone tried ceramic coating the manifold and/or the exhaust housing of the turbo to drop in-bay temps (this'd probably be more adventageous for firewall mounted DBS?)

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Dewebbing is easy. All you need is a hack saw and 1 or 2 hand files, a set of multi-grips and a bench vice, that's the way I did it. Of course it is much easier with power tools and air grinders etc, but, 'Patience is a virtue' :angel:

Cheers,

Jason

In a couple of weeks I'll be able to post photos of the ceramic coated manifold that APT Fabrications in Brisbane supply.

Cost runs to $410 on an exchange basis, ie. supply your own manifold for treatment or see if Ben can supply one for you and then give him back yours once the replacement is fitted (this is what I am doing due to the logistics of getting mine down to Brisbane and my time constraints). Actually, that price includes the manifold being defaced and dewebbed too.

The item is sand blasted (or some other media, I'm unsure of which) prior to being coated. The V700 coating is good for 1200° (from memory).

I'm glad Ben was able to get all this happening for me as I was only hours away from outlaying substantially more cash for a replacement from another supplier.

Photos and first impressions to follow soon.

There is a few places around that offer ceramic coating services:

Jet-Hot, Castlemaine, Victoria - www.jet-hot.com.au - Hi Performance Coating
High Performance Coatings (HPC), Leongatha, Victoria - High Performance Coatings | Contact
The Blast Factory and Competitions Coatings, Coburg North, Victoria - Competition Coatings
Ceramic Coatings, - Ceramic Coating

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

Does anyone have the guide on 'de-webbing' the factory manifold?


And has anyone tried ceramic coating the manifold and/or the exhaust housing of the turbo to drop in-bay temps (this'd probably be more adventageous for firewall mounted DBS?)

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Lots of posts... I was the first to solve the problem
By doing this...

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Lots of posts... I was the first to solve the problem
By doing this...

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Dewebbing didn't solve the problem for me, I warped my manifold a second time.

With the replacement second hand warped manifold, leaving the webs in place and having the face redone hasn't worked 100% either.

Did you Deweb, then machine true and then have it blasted and ceramic coated?

If not then we aren't talking the same solution.

Also, when you refitted the manifold, was it fitted, torqued up, run up to temperature and re torqued?

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Dewebbing didn't solve the problem for me, I warped my manifold a second time.

With the replacement second hand warped manifold, leaving the webs in place and having the face redone hasn't worked 100% either.

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+1 for what Tombie said... From memory of the thread where you mentioned this previously, the wording suggested you de webbed AFTER it had been machined?

When I did mine, I checked how much warp it had, then cut the webs out, and checked again - it moved by about 1mm just from cutting slots in the webs, before I even ground them out fully. Can't remember now whether it straightened or warped further, but that's fairly irrelevant.

Point is, by cutting the webs out, you release the stresses in the casting. If you machine it first, then cut the webs, you've just warped your nicely machined manifold before you even bolt it back on...

Interesting (to me) side note here that this is also a problem with chunks of hot roll steel. If you set up a block of mild steel on a mill, and machine one side, then flip it over and machine the other side, you normally find that the first side you machined is now not flat anymore. Machining the 'crust' off releases stresses in the steel, causing it to warp. Sometimes you have to do multiple passes just to get it to actually stay flat...

Back on topic, I fully de webbed mine, then machined it flat (no ceramic coating though), and it's now up to about 25,000km with no issue, despite fairly regularly seeing transient EGTs of 700+ (yeah, I know, I'm working on that problem...)

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Did you Deweb, then machine true and then have it blasted and ceramic coated?

If not then we aren't talking the same solution.

Also, when you refitted the manifold, was it fitted, torqued up, run up to temperature and re torqued?

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I'm going to fit some of the JE Engineering studs/spacers.

Do you think I should be using the factory stud torque specifications?

Or something else?

"I'm going to fit some of the JE Engineering studs/spacers."


What's the theory behind this, the spacer looks like a big washer, don't understand how this can help really??? It does sound like the studs are high tensile maybe, so they wont snap, doesn't this then put a lot of load somewhere else??