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Thread: Dipstick (ex D1) for D2a auto

  1. #1
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    Dipstick (ex D1) for D2a auto

    Mods and Roberto. My apologies for inadvertently highjacking a thread. On reflection, I believe this item warrants a thread in its own right, so hopefully, here goes. Feel free to castigate or educate me if I done wrong!

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Roberto
    Yes this has happened to me out of the blue as well, so it may not be the mechanics fault. If you drove with low ATF levels you may have noticed the ATF temperature light on the dash illuminate. Almost certainly, just topping up the ATF (a very difficult task lying on your back in red dirt) would not have filled it adequately, hence the reason for the car driving abnormally. Under those circumstances the ATF may have cooked and turned black.
    Now you need to have the ATF drained and replaced, and keep your fingers crossed.
    After this happened to me I fitted a dip stick and top filler.


    Question
    Have just been talking to my local Auto Trans expert (and he is good), and was asked the question which dipstick/filler would be used when converting a D2a auto trans sump to a D1 to provide a dipstick and easier ATF filling? Apparently there are 2 or 3 different versions? and some or all might need some re-routing to be able to be fitted in. Anyone?

    As an aside, a new sump might also provide a solution (ie alternative location to the already welded in nut) for my "exposed" ATF temp sensor problem, which to work needs to be inserted so it picks up at the bottom of the sump to give accurate readings.
    I have the Melbourne based Autron Triple AFT temp, engine oil pressure and Amps gauge and the Autron version ATF sensor, unlike the VDO, is quite long and sticks out quite a bit (see pics), leaving it exposed to potential breakages.
    One option under consideration is a mini sump protector of some kind, but I haven't started researching auto trans sump protectors yet.
    Alternatively, apparently I can use a VDO sensor and have the Autron gauge re-calibrated, but from Perth that's probably more of a pain than changing the sump - plus if we can get some good info on the sump/filler conversion option/s, it might help other members here.
    Cheers Gavin Attached Thumbnails
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
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    The fitting on the end of the pipe for the dipstick is a JIC fitting. You can get an adaptor for it but the small size of the plug hole means you'd need 2 adaptors to step up to the correct size for the pipe. Only option would be to weld a male fitting on.

    Terrafirma make a D2 guard.

    Terrafirma Disco 2 Gear Box Guard | Underbody Guards - Transmission Guards Accessories for Land Rover Vehicles


  3. #3
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    Doesn't gearbox usually refer to manual gearbox, as opposed to transmission for automatics? I notice that TerraFirma list the D3 protector as for the transmission... It also doesn't look like the right shape to me...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    As an aside, a new sump might also provide a solution (ie alternative location to the already welded in nut) for my "exposed" ATF temp sensor problem, which to work needs to be inserted so it picks up at the bottom of the sump to give accurate readings.
    I have the Melbourne based Autron Triple AFT temp, engine oil pressure and Amps gauge and the Autron version ATF sensor, unlike the VDO, is quite long and sticks out quite a bit (see pics), leaving it exposed to potential breakages.
    One option under consideration is a mini sump protector of some kind, but I haven't started researching auto trans sump protectors yet.
    Alternatively, apparently I can use a VDO sensor and have the Autron gauge re-calibrated, but from Perth that's probably more of a pain than changing the sump - plus if we can get some good info on the sump/filler conversion option/s, it might help other members here.
    Easier solution would be to change your ATF temp gauge and probe to something more practical! I run a VDO temp sensor fitting in my automatic transmission. It is fitted up high near were the ATF cooler pipes connect (there are two threaded holes with plugs in them) - all that was required was a thread adapter. It's completely protected when 4WDing.
    I run a MadMan EMS and the sensor and required adapter were included in it.
    I would of thought moving to a more practical monitoring system would be easier than modifying sumps and making protective shields...

  5. #5
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    Well, I now have a D1 auto trans sump to play with (but not yet a filler tube) courtesy of my auto trans guru.

    To clarify the original question, it appears the configuration for the D1 filler tube may possibly be different for each of the 200, 300 and V8 - can anyone confirm this?
    If so, the question then becomes one of which one will best fit a D2, including anchoring against the engine if possible.

    My main interest is to have a dipstick (and hence a filler) for my ATF, with the sensor location issue being secondary (the reason for the low location is to get the most accurate reading - putting it higher could give a lower reading). The grand plan - if it comes off - is to make the D1 sump pan bigger with a fitted insert and welded nut so that I can insert the sensor horizontally for better protection, rather than the current exposed wiring hanging down scenario. I also like the idea of sump protection anyway if its not too expensive - checking now!


    Cheers Gavin
    Last edited by gavinwibrow; 8th February 2013 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Addn info
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    the sensor location issue being secondary
    If the sensor is lower than the rest of the transmission, then I would have thought this would be quiet a big concern if you are planning to do any off road work. If you break the sensor/rip it out and the fluid leaks it'll leave you stranded.


    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    (the reason for the low location is to get the most accurate reading - putting it higher could give a lower reading).
    Out of interest, what is this theory based on?
    I was under the impression that heat generally rises... Also the fluid sitting in the sump is the fluid that is not presently in the workings of the automatic transmission - it's sitting there and cooling down...
    I'm not sure on the fluid flow through the LR automatic transmissions, but on Falcon units that I have previously worked on, the fluid flows from:
    the sump -> internals of the AT -> into the fluid cooler -> back into the sump
    So if this is the case with the LR transmission to, then taking a fluid reading from the sump would result in lower readings than the actual workings of the AT, as the fluid in the sump has just been through the ATF cooler...

    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    To clarify the original question, it appears the configuration for the D1 filler tube may possibly be different for the 200, 300 and V8 - can anyone confirm this? If so, the question then becomes one of which one will best fit a D2, including anchoring against the engine if possible.
    Cheers Gavin
    May be best asked in the D1 forum.

  7. #7
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    just thinking out loud here Gavin,,

    the filler hole in the D2 auto box provides the fluid level the box operates on,,
    I suppose its a case of bolt on the new sump and dipstick, mark the top of the dipstick, hold the old sump against the new, then put the dipstick back against its mark and mark the dipstick at the old filler hole??
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  8. #8
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    Hi Pedro. Spot on.

    I've just crawled under and physically checked, and the threaded hole for the D1 sump dipstick is the same size and location as the filler hole for the D2 (as you'd expect if they are supposed to be interchangeable).
    The only advantage of the D1 option is the existing male thread which presumably will connect straight on if I can ID the correct 200?/300?/V8? filler (it will be a convoluted journey from there to the engine bay whichever one it is).
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #9
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    I have used a P38a Sump and filler tube, exits on the LHS of the engine, thereby missing all the fuel lines etc etc.

    Bolted the top locating tag for the tube to the rear accoustic cover bolt.

    JC

  10. #10
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    And if you have a V8 and no accoustic cover?

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