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Wow Blknight! Thanks for that extensive list. To have that done by someone else would probably be at least $3,000 right? But the list is excellent since it gives me an idea of might go wrong. I will crawl underneath the car again on the weekend and have a good look for pink stains.
Nah I don't think 3000, Mabey 1000 if you can do basic stuff yourselfQuote:
Originally Posted by Trippy
Last time I did one that exhaustive it was on a D1, I billed $1kish but the owner had done the hard yards of getting the dash down and out so the evaporator could be replaced. I was called in as a "while its down this far what else" kind of deal. In the bill I provided the all the parts bar the radiator and the heater matrix (we reused the matrix, it was ok and he already had a radiator)he also elected to opt in a head gasket and timing belt kitQuote:
Originally Posted by Trippy
on todays prices... I'd be budgeting about $1k in parts alone if it all needed replacing, and would expect no change from $5k if you rolled it into a good workshop and said do all that.
for a D1 you'd be looking at 2.5 days worth of work to do it all single handed if you had all the tools, a copy of the rave and the desire to get it right (none of it is all that hard)
Most places would probably only do the chemical flush, reverse flush remove inspect and rod/replace the radiator(if you're lucky) replace the hoses and still bill you $1k.
I just been through this and glad I did. (2000 V8)
The Thor V8 is designed to run as hot as possible without overheating, thats where this engine is most efficient (urban myth that it's in connection with law on emissions ..apparently). So Pedro is right they run around 96 not 88. This is fine as long as the system is working well. You will notice on the temp gauge you should be up to running temp in a couple of K's due to the harder spring in the Thermostat.
The dury is out on trying lower temp stats, but i know a few mechanics who advised me not to deviate from the LR spec of for the Bosch Engine Management System. I'll go with their advice personally.
Cooling system failure leads to blow/leaking Head Gaskets and possible slipped liner. Both of these are not a design fault or weakness of the V8 design but effects of overheating a Alu Engine.
So consider :-
- Replace the thermostat
- Check all hoses and replace any which seem over hard or swollen like bike inner tubes when hot.
- Flush cooling system of course
- Check the water pump gasket and seal for leaks
- Test the viscous fan coupling (plenty of threads on this)
- Radiator flush (2 ways)
1) Take it out for a Service,( which i did.) After 13 years the report said it was 1/4 sludged up. So it was rodded out and the side tank flushed.
2) Top and bottom hose off and run water through from the top and the bottom. Wrap the hosepipe in a wet cloth to create the seal. Google "Scotty Kilmer .com" A US mechanic who will show how to do it.
Bit piece of mind once you do it as the cost of overheating can be 10x more!
IF you read my post correctly I stated it can run up to 102C.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robgw
Maybe I'm not so incorrect after all :p