Td5 wastegate

**Disco Muppet** · 11th February 2013, 03:16 PM

Afternoon folks.
Been reading up on the simple mod of playing with the wastegate on the Td5 to increase the boost pressure.
Using the guide in this thread AULRO ECU Fundraiser Auction
However, when I look at mine, it looks like this:

Which is different to the ones in the photos.
So, is it the same deal?
Do I undo the lock nut and turn the wings pieces?
Or has mine been replaced with something different?
Cheers
Muppet

**OffTrack** · 11th February 2013, 05:15 PM

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Afternoon folks.
Been reading up on the simple mod of playing with the wastegate on the Td5 to increase the boost pressure.
Using the guide in this thread AULRO ECU Fundraiser Auction
However, when I look at mine, it looks like this:

Which is different to the ones in the photos.
So, is it the same deal?
Do I undo the lock nut and turn the wings pieces?
Or has mine been replaced with something different?
Cheers
Muppet

If you look at the pic of the D2 engine bay in the post you've linked to you'll see it matches the one on yours - which is the correct setup for a d2. The other pics are photos of a random wastegate d/l'd off the interwebs.

**Disco Muppet** · 11th February 2013, 05:25 PM

Originally Posted by OffTrack

If you look at the pic of the D2 engine bay in the post you've linked to you'll see it matches the one on yours - which is the correct setup for a d2. The other pics are photos of a random wastegate d/l'd off the interwebs.

Cheers OffTrack.
So I assume the twist piece underneath the wings is what I have to 'wind'?

**robbotd5** · 11th February 2013, 05:32 PM

Muppet.
The easiest way to adjust your boost pressure up is to 1): grip the wastegate actuator shaft with vice grips, not too tight. 2): undo locknut. 10mm spanner. 3): wind knurled adjusting nut anticlockwise ie towards front of car a quarter of a turn. 4): lock up lock nut remove vice grips. However, you realy need a turbo boost gauge because it will go into overboost if you go too far. Also a bit of inox on the actual wastegate shaft into the turbo housing also helps keep the gate from sticking.
Regards
Robbo

**Alex 110** · 11th February 2013, 05:34 PM

Undo the lock nut & turn the knurled nut inside the wings - without turning the wings themselves.

**alpick** · 11th February 2013, 07:21 PM

You should be able to get almost two full turns of the knurled knob before you hit overboost protection (at least i did when i set mine to 19 psi via nanocom.) in any case turn till you hit overboost under full throttle load i.e. climbing a hill in third, then back off half a turn.

easy as. Then fit a d2a I/c and bobs your uncle.

lovin mine set up like that.

**Disco Muppet** · 11th February 2013, 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by alpick

You should be able to get almost two full turns of the knurled knob before you hit overboost protection (at least i did when i set mine to 19 psi via nanocom.) in any case turn till you hit overboost under full throttle load i.e. climbing a hill in third, then back off half a turn.

easy as. Then fit a d2a I/c and bobs your uncle.

lovin mine set up like that.

Cheers.
Is the D2a I/C absolutely necessary, or is it just "the other half of the package" if you get what I mean.
Am I able to run increased boost safely with a standard D2 IC?

**TD50WA** · 11th February 2013, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Cheers.
Is the D2a I/C absolutely necessary, or is it just "the other half of the package" if you get what I mean.
Am I able to run increased boost safely with a standard D2 IC?

Hey DM

More boost = more heat in the exhaust.....manifold can warp, break studs...important to have an egt gauge to avoid problems.
Larger intercooler mostly reduces this issue within reason.....cools air intake after being heated more because of more boost compression....this means cooler charge and cooler exhaust temps.....but still very wise to get egt gauge.

If doing without intercooler, just don't fang for long periods without letting engine cool a bit, be careful going uphill, try not to use full pedal where possible, if doing so, try to keep full throttle to as short a time as reasonable....it may be ok forever, but .......you can do a manifold very easily though.

Cheers
Kev

**iPom** · 12th February 2013, 06:18 AM

The D2a I/C offers a 35% increase in cooling capability, so for a relatively small outlay (I paid $100 for mine) it is a worthwhile mod.

Coupled with an ECU re-chip/re-map and wastegate tweak it will certainly bring a smile to your face

.

As Big Kev has rightly pointed out, it is a good investment to fit an EGT gauge as well. In certain situations you will find yourself driving by the EGT gauge.

Dave

**OffTrack** · 12th February 2013, 09:19 AM

Originally Posted by bigkevg

More boost = more heat in the exhaust.....

Someone step in and correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that increased boost = more air to fuel which results in LOWER EGTs with diesels, not higher.

See for example:
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost...0important.htm

So why is EGT important? EGT is an indication of how hot the combustion process is in the cylinders, and the amount of “afterburning” that is occurring in the exhaust manifold. EGT is also directly related to the air/fuel ratio. The richer the air/fuel ratio in a diesel, the higher the EGT will be. Two things can create a rich mixture under heavy loads or at full throttle: the first is too much fuel, and the second is not enough air. That seems simple enough, but it’s the second part, not enough air, that could get a stock, unmodified truck or motorhome in trouble. Anything that restricts intake airflow, or intake air density, limits the air mass that gets to the cylinders. Think of it as the amount of oxygen getting to the cylinders to support the combustion of fuel. This could include: a dirty or restrictive air cleaner, a partially blocked air intake, high outside air temperature, high altitude, restricted airflow to or through the radiator or intercooler, and high water temperature. The vehicle’s water temperature gauge will provide a warning of a cooling system problem, but the other problems aren’t likely to be noticed without a pyrometer unless the driver notices excessive exhaust smoke. A pyrometer also reacts more quickly than the water temperature gauge, so it allows the driver to spot a problem sooner and avoid engine damage. A restrictive exhaust system can also reduce the airflow through the engine, resulting in a rich condition. Any of the above conditions can result in excessive EGT if the vehicle is working hard, such as pulling a heavy load, running at sustained high speed, subjected to climbing a long grade, etc.

The problem is usually to do with remaps running rich at wide throttle ( aka "smoke is normal with heavy throttle") which increases EGT's. Larger intercoolers help combat this by cooling the incoming air which increases the density of the intake charge which improves the air to fuel ratio which in turn lowers the EGT.

from the same page lined above:

We mentioned earlier that excessive EGTs are due to a rich air/fuel mixture, which can be caused by too much fuel. Too much fuel is typically the result of modifying a turbo-diesel for more power. Not all diesels are modified for speed or maximum pulling power; some diesels are modified for better towing and passing performance. There are many products on the market that claim to increase diesel power, but almost all of them increase fuel delivery at full power with little regard for EGT.

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