D2 key hard to get into ignition barrel (sometimes)

Yes to Inox.
Locksmith told me that they ONLY use Inox these days.
My td5 1999 d2 was very difficult to get the key into when I bought it. One good squirt of Inox and the problem went away.

Inox? where would I get that and do I just ask for Inox lubricant?

Thanks Steve

Hey Sharkee ,Inox is available at SuperCheap :) and most good hardware/ auto places . There are the 2 types standart grade , Food grade, if you feel like eating of the key :D and they do a lanotec protective spray which is Lanolin based . Good for the fishing and shooting gear. Just be warned , a little goes a looong way :D

Cheers Scott

Mine was getting very sticky, I carefully pulled it apart freed up the sticky wafers, removed a problem one, lathed a new pin after drilling the original and its been fine since.
Its not difficult if done with care.

Hi All
Had a similar problem a few years back I removed the barrel and sprayed it with CRC contact cleaner it has been ok ever since I really did flush it out used about half a can on it but it worked well. I think there may be other threads on the subject if you search for them
Regards
Doug

After playing the D1 and D2 ign key dance a few times, ended up taking out all the wafers the spring and ball and the steering lock. Lock has to come out because if key comes out, steering locks :) Never had any sort of key problem after that.

Key :) to preventing the problem all together is to only use the ign key from new and hang nothing off of it. As someone did say to me " its an ignition switch not a key hanger!"

Security is not a problem because of the smart key and ECU link.

Cheers

Is this the product that you are all talking about? I use dry film lubricant (CRC) on all of the locks that cause problems around the home - this INOX product seems to be similar. Product use on their website seems to indicate it's what you guys are referring to.

I used to only use graphite dust and still have half a bottle somewhere, but its so messy compared to this product, and takes some work sometimes to get into place. Just make sure its a dry film lubricant, not a wet lubricant, like WD, silicon spray etc.

Thanks guys I haven't had a chance to get it yet but I will. Will let ya know!

Hi Sharkee and everyone else
I have been lurking for a while and this is the first time I have something new to add such is the level of expertise around here.
I had a D2 TD5 for about 5 years – now D3- love it and yes it is white also.
I used a different approach you may like to consider.
Soon after I got the D2 second hand I bought a new key fob and had the blank cut at a locksmith on Goodwood Rd (Adelaide). He knew the LR product and the D2s barrel problems. I was finding it difficult to insert the key. He suggested a plain key – no pod – cut the same as the other keys to be left in the barrel at all times so there is no wear due to the key going in and out. I put a little stick-on hook nearby to hang the real key after using it to open the door.
The only issue is that the immobiliser cuts in after about 30 seconds (I think) if you don’t start the engine. You then have to press the open button on the key fob to switch off the immobiliser. Normally the coil around the barrel causes the key to transmit and keep the immobiliser inactive. Once started it does not cut out.
Hope this helps and is not a duplication of the wisdom here.
Cheers

Thanks White Disco good info there. Well I didn't get a chance to get some inox but did find my little squirter of graphite powder and I gave it a good dose and :D working perfectly now. Thanks for all advice much appreciated

Steve