D2 key hard to get into ignition barrel (sometimes)

I searched and found a tutorial when I replaced my steering lock for a D1 unit. The key would go in but not turn. As an emergency measure I removed the bolts & lock pushed the steering lock plunger in & put a Tie Wrap round to stop it engaging. Put the lock back in place with standard SHCS bolts M8 x 12 ? Removed the electrical switch, two screws. So putting the key in place registered on the electronic reader then I turned the, loose switch,to start with a stubbie screw driver. After changing the complete switch for new, via a locksmith to match the old key I found that it still was not perfect. Last weekend I stripped the lock and as per tutorial ground off any minor protrusions . Still not good, I increased the angle on the point of the keys, I then reduced the key thickness from 2.6mm to 2.1mm this solved the problem. I could not find the spring for the steel ball I was about to use the one from the original lock but this seemed to create more issues so I left it out. So all the wafers in cleaned & lubed with Vaseline. No steel ball, thinner key, solved the problem it works wonderfully.

I have had the same problem in the past and used the inox to fix.

Spent sometime at a Adelaide Mechanics with other problems with my wifes car.

When he advised me to take other keys from my wifes key ring because the weight of the keys in the ignition would damage the barrel.

Took other 4 keys from the key ring ( No Problems since )

Hi all,

I have the dreaded D2 ignition problem.

I cannot get the key to go in to the ignition barrel. Looking at the barrel there is a bit of metal hanging down (ball bearing /wafer?). I have tried pushing that out of the way but it keeps falling down and key still will not go in.

is is worth trying inox or am I up for a new barrel?

I am based in Darwin so finding someone with experience to assist could be an issue as it is Toyota town.
appreciate any advice.

cheers, Chris

Hi there do what ollie did a couple of posts back remove lock
you will need a cold chisel to turn lock bolts and a cross head
screw driver.
Tape key fob to the ring that surrounds the key hole to make sure
immobiliser is off use a flat bladed screwdriver to turn ignition switch
and head to the local locksmith they should be able to sort lock issues
its easier for them to have just the mechanical part also gives you
wheels to drive arround in Toyota town.

Pete

Pete

I had the same problem a while ago.


Thanks to the guru's on this forum I will add once again that Inox is the easiest and quickest solution.


Works a treat.


Tony

A puff of graphite dust works for me, Bob

I use graphite poweder too...a locksmith told me years ago when mine played up that if everyone put a puff of graphite powder in their locks he would go out of business. Cheers

Another vote for INOX. Tiny squirt, no more problems.

All fixed.


Had a bent wafer and the ball. Ball bearing had dropped because of no lube.

lock pulled apart and fully cleaned/rebuilt.

darwin lock and key did all the work for me as. Was laid up after an operation. Very happy with service and price!

best of all works like a new one, it has never been so smooth since I bought it.

interestingly they said not to use graphite as it clogs the locks up, could be the humidity.

cheers, Chris

Graphite Power cured mine but try your spare first..

My main key was quite worn so it turned better with the spare before I added the powder. Also got a new key cut, all as new again.