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As Murray might have pointed out from quite a few thermostats he has pulled off and the bottom part that comes from the radiator is typically much much less stained than the part that comes along the bypass hose from the motor...ie the hot motor water that is bypassing the radiator. Cheers
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
I'm a bush/sea engineer only but IMHO those things are designed badly and are causing engines to blow up fro not being cool enough. Those old Buick 3500s would do 500,000 miles properly maintained.
Thanks again
Muppet, did you go for the standard/OEM radiator or?
I have similar mods and I'm still looking for any incremental cooling aids when towing the other brick (3T+ caravan) on a warm day and a PWR HD fully alum radiator at $1K might have to be next cab off the rank.
Although as Blacknight says it does put the fan a bit closer to hitting the rad if anything come loose - or if I hit a big cow.
Yeah just standard. It's supposed to be good for 200Kw so more than sufficient for my means.Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
The factory thermostat setup on the V8 and Td5 is designed maintain constant coolant flow through the engine block, the radiator is partially or mostly bypassed for temperature control.
Even old engines like the cleveland, windsor and LA V8's all bypassed to maintain block flow.
That flow prevents hot spots within the block and heads when not in full flow.
Yep all good in theory. But in the LR case it bypasses the radiator for the sake of the heater matrix. The fact is that many people on this and other forums find their D2 V8's run consistently cooler with a dead head inline stat than the 82 degree 3 way LR one. If you drill some holes you get some pressure relief and hopefully not too much cavitation in the water pump. Anyone who has experienced block or head gasket failure from high temps looks for a better solution than just passenger comfort. Cheers