Auto trans question

Reading these posts reminds me to post:-
Don't forget the cooler up front!!!

On both D1/D2 you can get quite a surprise as to how much dust and dirt can adhere to the cooler matrix.

On a D2 remove the top cowl cover (4 dzus screws) to access the back of the cooler /front of the radiator.

On a D1 remove the top fan protector and the two brackets holding the radiator to the core support. Push it back to see the crud, leaves, and junk that get trapped in there.

I use a low pressure wand to clean it (soap and water) then a good low pressure flush in either direction followed by shop air line scour.

If you tow consider and additional cooler, like you ambient temps where I am often climb past 30dgc and fluid temperatures can climb and oxidize very quickly reducing the transmission life.
Dennis
zedcars

thanks, I will check the trans cooler. it didnt look too dirty last time iwas fiddling around in there. but a good clean is never a bad thing. another cooler/bigger one will be fitted soon as possible. I am not towing a lot at the moment but definately want to look after the trans

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Originally Posted by Epic_Dragon

thanks, I will check the trans cooler. it didnt look too dirty last time iwas fiddling around in there. but a good clean is never a bad thing. another cooler/bigger one will be fitted soon as possible. I am not towing a lot at the moment but definately want to look after the trans

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Davis Performance Landies do an additional auto trans cooler for the D2.
Last I checked they were around $900 fitted. :)

TRS do a P38 cooler upgrade.
Works very well.

the P38 is what i was looking at. But dont really know the best one. previous 4wd had been upgraded already so never had to think about it, and before that was able to drive manual. so entering new territory figuring out best transcooler to use :)

well trans fluid change today. got covered in oil! wasnt expecting it to come out after not even getting 2 litres in. But then ran it, went through gears, checked levels again, did that a couple times until was done. Ended up with 4 litres in there after all that! test drive into barker and back before. Doesnt seem to get anywhere near as hot! old oil was brown and funny smelling definately due for a change :)

My 2003 td5 auto trans tunnel warms right up on the beach/sand so i would imagine this is the killer for autos when towing. Some years ago I switched to a full synthetic castrol Z ATF. In doing so I changed the auto oil 3 times over 1500K (Do 500 K then change to clear most of the old stuff - expensive but it works) and Im sure it ran cooler. Yes there is a technique to change the oil as described in RAVE. If I towed a lot an oil cooler would be a must

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Originally Posted by OffTrack

If you are powering off the Climate Control rather than switching to economy mode (which switches the AC off but leaves the climate control electronics active) it seems to go into a mode where air flows through the heater matrix and into the vehicle.

I'm not 100% sure this actually works but...

I have a copy of the US D2 video owners manual, and there is a comment made that you need to set the temperature controls to LO before turning the climate control off to ensure you get fresh air coming into the cabin. It's not mentioned anywhere I can see in the paper owners manual.

I've uploaded the chapter on climate control. Comment about turning to LO is near the end of the clip.

Discovery II Climate Control - YouTube

I tried doing this once but the results weren't conclusive and I keep forgetting to try it out again ;)

If turning to LO actually works the hot airflow isn't so much a quirk, but more of a result of the correct procedure not being documented!

cheers
Paul

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Hi Paul
Great piece of history BTW :)
I've tried this method, like you, with inconclusive results and on balance I haven't found this helps - for my car anyhow...

I have also found that (in my case):
- while my left leg is roasting away on the trans tunnel console, if I feel the passenger side, just where the plastic 'flares out' to meet the dash bottom - it is significantly cooler than the driver's side.
- i have felt the side of the trans tunnel below the console and it is not hot. While this is not conclusive either, as the carpet/sound deadening will not retain/transmit heat like the plastic does, it is a marked difference.

This leads me to suspect it is an issue with sealing on the heater box as mentioned early in the thread, or air is continually flowing through the matrix absorbing heat, ...or the blend motors are faulty. I believe that there is no "heater tap" meaning hot coolant is flowing through the heater at all times :(.

This could be a LR Moment, as having been designed in a cool climate, nobody thought of, or noticed what this would mean in a warm one. I bet all hot environment testing was done with the A/C on!

Cheers
Mike

Well, another one for OffTrack.
I'm currently in Sydney, and on the way down I thought I'd have a bit of an experiment with my knew knowledge of aircon and trans tunnels.
When I first started out, I couldn't keep my leg on the trans tunnel. Not normal, as the carpet really irritates my skin, but at the same time it was scalding hot, hot enough to leave a mark.
After a while, I switched on the aircon, let it get cool, cranked it to full and selected the footwell vent, re-circ off and shut it down.
And I was pleasantly surprised. It was completely comfortable, barely any noticeable heat and my left leg no longer had a small hole being melted in it!
This was over a drive of about 350kms, and it didn't become hotter at all.
So there, just another contradictory piece of info about our landies :D