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Picture of my leaking (dissappearing )nipple:
Ooooops! Wrong nipple...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/03/292.jpg
Hard to see from the picture (if I took the picture any closer it just comes out a blur), but on the tapered end of the bleed nipple, there is a flat spot all the way around about 0.5mm wide - I don't think this is mean to be there, might have been caused by over tightening or something.
Occasionally I have had the same experience with my petrol D2. The first brake application in the morning fails to slow the vehicle.
It doesn't feel like air in the system as pumping the pedal makes no difference - just a hard pedal. I have thought it could be a leak in the brake servo and have let it idle for a while before starting off, but more recently I feel that it could be the pads not warmed up. Always after travelling a short distance the brakes are fine. Air in the system would give a spongy pedal all the time I would think?
Ten.
yep, thats a result of over tightening. The nipple face should be a taper with no grooves or scratches in it. The seat and taper seal on a very fine line and should be just above finger tight in my world :D
Cheers Scott
Do you know what the nipples are made out of? Are they a softer material than the calipers? I'm wondering if the seat in the calipers is also likely to be damaged (assume they're not too bad though as they're not leaking with the temporary Falcon bleed nipple fitted).Quote:
Originally Posted by schuy1
Generally the seat in the caliper is ok, it is the nipple that deforms. So yes the nipple is most likely softer. And it is surprising in this day and age of manufactuers making each their own, that bleed nipples are for the most part surprisingly interchangeable. To do with there only being a few brake manufacturers I assume .
Cheers Scott
damn,, there goes my excuse--Quote:
Originally Posted by twr7cx
Hey guys, got same sort of issue with my brakes, jumping on them abs works fine, its when maybe coming to a set of lights that change quickly, you press pedal and they are rock hard you can push as hard as you like but it still stops slowly, it almost feels like if you rolled the car turned off eg lack of power assistance, is there anyway of checking vaccum, booster etc, i did remove hose and there is plenty of suction, failing that any recomends on a brake speciliast in brissy, any other ideas or checks i can do
Cheers
Ken
Ken, If you have plenty of vacuum it sounds like a problem with you booster.
Simple check of the boster.
After shutting down the engine, step on the brake pedal a few times, there should be vacuum present in the chamber, so you should feel the pedal get harder, 2 - 3 strokes should have exhausted the vacuum and pedal will be hard.
If it is hard straight away, booster (or 1 way valve) is suspect as you have already ruled out the vacuum supply
You can also test it by pressing hard on the brakes with the engine off, keeping pressure on the pedal start the engine and you should feel the pedal fall away slightly.
Today I replaced the rear discs and pads on my D2. When I started the car to test the brake pedal pressure it just went down pretty much to the floor. When I did the front discs and pads a few months ago I never had this problem. I have read so many different ways to bleed the system and it has got me no where:D.
What I would like to know is, can I just do the old fashioned bleed of the brakes? From rear to front with the jar and a clear line? I didn't get any air in the system that I know of. All I did was remove the caliper, change the disc and push the piston in the caliper so I could fit the new pads.
There seems to be so many conflicting ways of doing it. Any help would be great.
Thanks
Chris