Thread: Brake Master Cylinder - repair/rebuild vs replace?

I removed the master cylinder this afternoon. The rebuild/overhaul kit is quiet misleading as really all it does is replace the exterior seals, nothing inside the cylinder is replaced.

The kit is 1/3rd of the price of a replacement master cylinder, might be worth it if you have a minor leak from your reservoir, but if those seals have gone, my guess is that the internal seals are probably not too far behind!

I sleeved the cylinder in mine with a stainless one a year or more ago now and no probs.

Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

I sleeved the cylinder in mine with a stainless one a year or more ago now and no probs.

DIY or did you take it somewhere to be done?

From past experience in dealing with ABS the labour charges cost almost as much as the $170.00 I just paid for a whole new master cylinder.

Scott, I just replace with a new one, as you have seen they aren't expensive.

Sleeving them is almost as expensive in my opinion, and nowhere near the warranty provided.

JC

Unless the brake cyl is rare or of vintage origin it is better to replace with new part. So much less mucking around

Cheers Scott

Originally Posted by twr7cx

The kit is 1/3rd of the price of a replacement master cylinder, might be worth it if you have a minor leak from your reservoir, but if those seals have gone, my guess is that the internal seals are probably not too far behind!

I put new seals between the reservoir and cylinder on my Rangie about 6 or 7 years ago. No dramas with the master cylinder in that time.

Machine shop. Cost was about 200 with Labour to R&R plus do new fluid and bleed. If the original is mild steel I suppose the stainless insert is going to outlast it by miles.

Cheers

Originally Posted by BigJon

I put new seals between the reservoir and cylinder on my Rangie about 6 or 7 years ago. No dramas with the master cylinder in that time.

Fair enough, but the internal seals are probably the most important ones as they're whats pushing the fluid into the lines and they're the ones that aren't possible to check their condition via observation. Personally I don't think it's worth the risk. It's like changing a light globe, always do in pairs as generally the partner globe blows not long afterwards, or replacing coolant hoses I always do the lot as the rubber generally ages and perishes at the same time (unless there has been a factor causing undue wear and tear such as rubbing).