Thread: ACE is it worth waiting for

Alternatively, you could work on the principle that parts not fitted weigh nothing and can't break down.

That looks like an awfully complicated system with a lot of critical parts. (Says a Defender driver who was quite satisfied with his Series III when he owned it.)

How reliable is the ACE?

Originally Posted by vnx205

Alternatively, you could work on the principle that parts not fitted weigh nothing and can't break down.

That looks like an awfully complicated system with a lot of critical parts. (Says a Defender driver who was quite satisfied with his Series III when he owned it.)

How reliable is the ACE?

In Australia it seems to be the most reliable of the "tech" systems on the D2.

Many of the horror stories about ACE come from countries where the roads are salted during winter. This seems to badly corrode the ACE pipes which results in loss of fluid and failure of other components like the pump which can get very expensive.


cheers
Paul

Hmm....
Never driven one with, so I can't really comment on ACE vs Non-ACE.
But I have no trouble cornering at speed in mine, stiffer springs may be influencing that though.
Go with whatever suits your budget best, If I were looking to replace mine I'd certainly be looking for one with ACE....

When I was looking for my Disco 2, I had a certain criteria - D2a, SLS, history etc, ACE was on the "Would Like" list, but not essential.
I almost gave up on having it as I was looking at later models, most of which were "Classics", and just an optioned up base model, hence no ACE, unless it was added as an option at initial purchase - I never saw one with it fitted.
I then found the one I ended up buying, it had a good history, needed a few things doing, but that was bargaining power, and it had everything I wanted including ACE.
When I first got it I didnt really notice the ACE doing anything, as I was just babying it around, I think it is essentially inactive under 40kph.
When i gave it a bit it handles superbly, sweeping corners are a dream and stability around roundabouts and faster corners is unreal.
I have a Suzuki Vitara as a diaily commute car and on some corners it feels as though I am going to fall out of the window, it leans that badly.

A prime example of how effective it is was over the March Long weekend we were travelling down toward Port Wakefield, 110kph, Camper in tow, friend following us in his new FJ Cruiser, when a car towing a boat infront of us decides to do a last minute left turn, his brakes locked and I had nowhere to go except round him - Swerved around it like we were doing 10kph in a car park, no swaying no bucking, nothing - superb.
Friend even commented how good it handled form behind, wonder if the Cruiser would do as well?

I guess the moral of this little story is, wait for the right one, they are getting on a bit now, but there are still some excellent examples available - buy the best you can afford, at the spec level you really want, get it checked out by someone that know what they are looking at and factor in a few $$ for post purchase repairs and fluid changes.

And most importantly - Enjoy It!!

Was this thread merged? Either that or I missed this.

Originally Posted by Excesselec

Hi Slunnie
I am looking to buy a D2 TD5 and was wondering if ACE was a good thing , reading about your shocks maybe I don't need it ,what do you think , appreciate your input .
thanks and regards Andrew

Hey Andrew, I think I commented earlier re ACE but the roll of ACE and the roll of the shocks are quite different. The videos that Paul linked show really well about what ACE does, it's purpose being related predominantly to (body) roll resistance when cornering and allowing the suspension to articulate freely and without the restriction of anti-sway bars while offroad.

Relating to shocks, there seem to be a lot of people who also think that shocks can also be used to control body roll, and my opinion is that this line of thought has very minor merit. In relation to body roll or rocking, stiffer shocks will only control the speed it will happen at, but nowhere fast enough to make much difference in my opinion with the exception possibly of a sharp turn in, but the body will roll basically the same amounts irrespective of shocks.

The real purpose of the shocks are to to keep your tyres on the ground. Tyres are like basket balls, you can bounce them just the same which is what happens with every minor and major bump. The springs then keep it bouncing. The shock controls the speed that the suspension by absorbing the bounce energy which prevents the tyre bounce. If the tyres are firmly planted on the ground with good controlling shocks (ie, not worn out or comfort spec) then you will have bag loads of traction and stability on rough surfaces, bumps etc. The shocks also control the body from bouncing around and making everybody car sick.

I guess what I'm saying, is that although suspension is an integrated system, the shocks and ACE have very different purposes. I would look for an ACE vehicle and put good shocks into it. My Disco with ACE and good shocks has between 6" and 7" of combined lift depending on tyres and it has a heavy 3/4 Defender ARB roof rack and it handles really well on all surfaces, with all loads and it corners really well. Fantastic offroad also.

Yes the ACE bits from the other thread were merged as it was essentially same q. In two threads.

A big thank you to everybody re my question on ACE, I can see the merits of the system and how it works , so this has completely answered my question , I currently drive a Patrol which has a 2 inch lift and it sways from side to side , especially when the roof rack is loaded so I can see this will be much less of a problem with an ACE equipped Discovery , I am happy to wait until I find one .
So thanks again I am new to the site and have now become addicted as I read all the different threads and posts .
Cheers Andrew

My vehicle is 5" higher than standard (suspension lift and larger tyres) and thanks to the ACE still handles great even with the roof top tent fitted on top!