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Thread: diesel in the sump

  1. #11
    schuy1 Guest
    The seating areas of the washers do need to be surgically clean too . Any grit or imperfections can have an adverse effect on sealing.

  2. #12
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    thanks for the help. it's all back together and been for short test run. I will take it a bit further tuesday the local show is on at Yeoval. i wil be checking the oil on return. damn that purge cycle is a bugger, until I got in and stomped o the pedal while starting it, then it fired.

  3. #13
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    If you have a 10P engine, you could be getting diesel in the sump from a cracked head, as the fuel rail is part of the head casting.

    IIRC - The 15P engine was redesigned to use an external fuel rail...

    M

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudflap61 View Post
    thanks for the help. it's all back together and been for short test run. I will take it a bit further tuesday the local show is on at Yeoval. i wil be checking the oil on return. damn that purge cycle is a bugger, until I got in and stomped o the pedal while starting it, then it fired.
    Did you do the five full strokes of the throttle with ignition on to purge? Or the purge in RAVE? The five full strokes starts a purge routine that runs for about 5 minutes.

    hope the o-ring change has solved the fuel in sump issue.

    cheers
    Paul

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    Did you do the five full strokes of the throttle with ignition on to purge? Or the purge in RAVE? The five full strokes starts a purge routine that runs for about 5 minutes.

    hope the o-ring change has solved the fuel in sump issue.

    cheers
    Paul
    The one in rave, turn on ign then hit pedal 5 times quickly. it went into purge cycle for about 5 mins. after each purge, i did about 4. i would try starting, but nothing just crank over. only when i got in and put my foot on the pedal while starting did it start.

    went for a drive today and I knoe it maybe early days but it looks like it didn't fix it, i will be checking oil very frequently over coming days.
    Cheers
    Doug

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by stallie View Post
    You are very very lucky.

    Injector seals are a quick job, although you need to make up a curved pointy tool lever thingy. I'm pretty sure that's a brand name.
    This tool is ideal for removing TD5 Injectors. (a.k.a. an early holden wheel brace/hubcap remover)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
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    Well checked the oil today after having done 250km, and the oil level is up. looks like something else......

  8. #18
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    Unfortunately both early and late heads crack fuel galleries

    I did a seal replace on one years back, at the time carefully checked the injector bores etc and saw nothing untoward. A week and a half later the oil was up again, removed injectors again a voila, an obvious crack visible. just the act of disturbing the system by removing and refitting injectors made it worse.

    At least it was obvious, new head fixed it.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #19
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    Fit an AMC head if you can problem solved

  10. #20
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    I had the same problem. Got the seals replaced, but it was a crack in the head. Very tiny on one of te injector ports. Very nasty $8000 bill. The replacement head was heavier cast in the area where the original cracked. No problems since......so far....

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