My mistake, sorry, edit out reply. Bob
Printable View
My mistake, sorry, edit out reply. Bob
The reason RAVE works well is that it is written by people who knew how the vehicle went together in the factory. The procedures tend to be "disassembly is the reverse of assembly" so things generally come apart pretty easily, even if it seems a bit like a babushka doll at times.
It's also worth noting that the version of the workshop manual RAVE most people have on CD is not the most up to date version. The final CD was released in 2002, after which point the manual was only available by online subscription. The version on the RAVE CD is revision 6 from 2002 while the online version (available on Topix but not as a PDF download) is revision 9 published in 2005. Most of the content is the same but there are a number of revised procedures like the intercooler remove/refit.
The official time allowance for an intercooler remove refit is 1 hour. I guess after a few times with all the tools at hand it would be reasonably doable.
cheers
Paul
[QUOTE=OffTrack;1908422]Because people read Urban Panzer's site and follow his how-to's rather than reading RAVE:
/QUOTE]
I've finger trouble today. But here is what I think [ thru edit] We have three choices, RAVE, THE GOOD OIL , & other sources such as UP. Personally, I study all 3, & the Haines manual, then make my mind up to which way I approach the job. Worked so far. Bob
My comment that both Gus the Dog and yourself have quoted is a direct response to a question Northiam posed: "Why would one attempt to remove intercooler without first removing the fan?:confused:"
I do usually check out what UP has done, and the pix and commentary are usually a pretty good indication of what the potential pitfalls are and flesh out the bare bones of RAVE. Same with the forum, although I tend to search rather than use the good oil. I treat RAVE as the reference when I'm actually working on the car, and refer to the other sources if I need to clarify some detail. If something requires LR special tools I'll go to the forum posts for advice on how to work around.
cheers
Paul
[QUOTE=OffTrack;1908979]My comment that both Gus the Dog and yourself have quoted is a direct response to a question Northiam posed: "Why would one attempt to remove intercooler without first removing the fan?:confused:"
I do usually check out what UP has done, and the pix and commentary are usually a pretty good indication of what the potential pitfalls are and flesh out the bare bones of RAVE. Same with the forum, although I tend to search rather than use the good oil. QUOTE]
Good point, Paul, sometimes we Land Rover nuts jump in feet first, but you could blame passion for that. However, search rather than use the GOOD OIL? Sacrilege! Give yourself an uppercut :D Bob
My original post was to highlight the poor design and access of the intercooler and its mounting system.
There are many things that could have been done to make it easier.
Eg the captive nuts on the brackets should be reversed so that you don't have to take out the horns and foam.
I am sure there are better ways to mount the thing.
I was talking a couple of days ago to a bloke with a Toyota 200 V8 diesel. Cleaning the intercooler is a 10 minute job. admittedly it is on top of the engine but there are many examples in Japanese cars of simple easily servicable design eg Vbelts on the aircon of Prado 120.
It seems to me that the current system is designed to facilitate assembly of the car by inserting the intercooler already assembled with the radiator and damn the consequences for servicing.
I have had my little dummy spit now. I feel better.
Stupid design just annoys me.
Regards Philip A
Ok, so you obviously enjoy doing the hard way. I'm sure there is a word that describes that trait... :p
I bought a set of these soon after I got the D2:
http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/...D5wrenches.jpg
DIFFLOCK - TD5 & V8 Viscous Fan Wrench Set
I've never had cause to regret spending the money on these rather than the generic spanners on eBay.
Yep there is - poor :D Actually it's not that hard at all with the fan in place. As I said in another thread, the captive nuts on the auto cooler were the real problem for me. I'm used to working on motorcycles though so you get used to working within tight areas on them.