oil cooler is quite likely the culpritTd5 oil cooler repair (oil in coolant) - Land Rover Zone
jc
Hello,
This is carry on from my other thread,.
I opened the bonnet today and found the coolant FULL of oil foam stuff... thinking head gasket.... ???????
Oil clean but quite low
No water in oil
Idle very good
Ran Great till I stopped driving it a few days ago
Been losing a little water for some time
Lots of pressure in the top hose
Engine sounds great no knocks or different noises
No warning lights
Anything else I should be looking at.......
Thanks
Ian
oil cooler is quite likely the culpritTd5 oil cooler repair (oil in coolant) - Land Rover Zone
jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Head gasket probably. Mine went identical to yours at 220K (td5).
The good news is that you have identified the problem early, before more expensive damage done to engine.
Whyatts in Geraldton WA repaired mine, also they replaced all associated pumps and pipes, radiator, oil cooler etc etc, and had the corroded head repaired, and the exhaust manifold machined, and...and...are you beginning to get my drift?
It's still going strong at 280K.
ian, in that tutorial in the link i posted, he tests it to 50psi, the td5 oil pressure on a cold start is way over that, up to 80psi. if you have orings like those in the pics then i can suggest it is very possible that is the cause. i have however seen the cooler elements eat away from electrolysis, even ones with coolant and inhibitors used religiously. anyway all will be revealed
replace all of the cooling system hoses afterward too, they will soften up and fail one by one over time as oil doesn't help
jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Hello,
Yes already got a set of hoses and quite a few other things to install so do it all at once. Most likely start stripping in the next day or so, as flying back on Monday so I can order the stuff and have it already when I get back. was looking at the price of the cooler might be better to order a new one anyway, thought about TIG-ing it up done a few radiators but corrosion is something you can't weld.
Many thanks for your replies..
Ian
Hello,
Just a reveiw, took the head off today and found looks not bad all sealing rings around cylinders looked ok, there was a little spot on number 2 the looked a little dodgy. It took a little time to remove the head was not hard at all followed RAVE and all very good and straight forward. To lift the head out holy s##t.... couldn't get the two bolts out next to the cabin and then couldn't get the height at the rear because of the bolts hitting the rear bulkhead and stuck in the holes, very heavy...... any after rang a friend to help out. Next was the oil cooler that was much easier.. removed the rotor, undid the bolts and off it came looked in at it and there was corrosion EVERY WHERE.... all with hard red coolant attached on most of the edges surprised it held any oil. One thing didn't seem right when lined up the two gold links and the mark there was a center punch mark on the rocker cam for the injectors this is about a tooth in advance does this center pop matter, couldn't see it in RAVE. So tomorrow strip the head and get it pressure tested and maybe a very slight skim... Thanks for everybody advise.
Ian
The rear bolts are a bugger. I ended up pulling the rubber stripping along the rear of the engine bay - where the bonnet seals. You can then move the soundproofing on the firewall out of the way. It gives enough clearance to get the back bolts in and out.
Cheers
Paul
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