Reply With QuoteItem 3 may rear oil seal or may be fpr leak. If blackish then must prob engine oil, lighter oil could be heavier components of diesel. FPR is back right hand side of block.
Master
My 2002 TD5 auto has started weeping oil at 250,000 km. The leaks are making a @#$*! of a mess, but not using much oil. I have not had to add any in 2000 kilometres. (How can so little fluid make so much mess ???).
1. Between the camshaft cover and cylinder head at the right rear. I understand that a proper fix involves head removal. Is there any point in just tightening the head bolt in that corner a wee bit?
2. A wetness from a round rubbery thingy at the back of the head, that I cannot see properly. I think it is what Rave calls the camshaft bore seal (rear). Rave shows a solid block. Mine has a metal something in the centre.
To digress here: I even went and bought a USB inspection probe to try to see the offending bit and leak – to no avail. I returned it to the shop because: it could not focus closer than a couple of inches, it could not turn at 90 degrees, it was a pain to try and wiggle it around while trying to watch the laptop screen and make sure the laptop did not get dropped, trodden on, oily, etc. In short, a neat tool for amateur proctologists, but not for finding Disco oil leaks.
Again, I suspect a proper fix might involve cylinder head removal.
3. A few drips from the auto gearbox bell housing (it is definitely engine oil and not ATF). I suspect the crankshaft rear main. I expect that a proper fix involves engine removal and a new seal. Are there any additives worth trying? Just in case it is relevant: with the oil filler cap removed there, is more blow back than I remember. No smoke or oil drops, but just enough to wobble the filler cap when placed loosely in the filler neck. Could there be a blocked crankcase breather somewhere that is creating a bit more pressure and increasing the oil leaks?
Moving on from the engine, the power steering box is weeping from the pitman arm seal. Again, it is really messy but not enough to require topping up the reservoir. On my 79 Rangie, I tried various wonder fluids like Moreys and Lucas, with a little, but not enough, improvement. Eventually I fitted an upgraded seal kit that stopped the leak. Are there any effective liquid cures for the D2? Is there a good seal kit for a D2 and can it be fitted in situ?
Suggestions please gentlemen?
Wizard
Item 3 may rear oil seal or may be fpr leak. If blackish then must prob engine oil, lighter oil could be heavier components of diesel. FPR is back right hand side of block.
Master
Normally if FPR you can smell diesel.
If engine oil,could be camshaft plug or rear main seal but another possibility
might be the vacuum pump oil feed or pump seal.
Trev.
YarnMaster
Just wondering what you mean when you say cam cover? The cam cover gasket is easy to replace and doesn't require touching the head bolts. The cam carrier on the other hand requires removing the head bolts. Tweaking the head bolts isn't advisable as they are tightened to a point where they stretch slightly.
There are three leak points at the back of the head.
- The D in the cam cover gasket
- a rubber cam seal
- a metal welch plug
The first is most common source of leaks.
Leaks from the cam cover gasket will run down the bell housing and end up on the bolts at the bottom, so make sure you fix and clean up leaks at the top before worrying about rear main seals.
Cheers
Paul
Master
oil leak?s?
My 02TD5 looked messy heaps underneath so I put the sing up in the shed and crossed my fingers--LANDY'S DON'T LEAK OIL THEY ARE JUST MARKING THEIR TERRITORY----well replaced tappet cover gasket,had to, still messy then read about using plumbers tape on the cam cut out seal,job done and degrease two weeks ago still smell the degreaser but NO MORE OIL!!!!!!
Wizard
Trev,Originally Posted by trev
My FPR leak has a seep, as only replaced approx 10k ago (yep, even the new ones aren't that flash) and will need replacing again !! . But by the time it gets to the floor, it looks like oil, as the lighter distillates have boiled off. It's just a bit lighter in colour than engine oil.
My cam cover gasket started leaking at the rear. It was only 8 months or so old. Refitted it with gasket glue, it than blow out at the front leaving a 20k oil trail to work. I have fitted a Provent and the filter became blocked, so the engine pressure was causing the oil leak.
New filter in the Provent and so far no oil leak.
Master
That for the suggestions - pretty much on the money.
Yes, there is a leak or leaks around the fuel pressure regulator. I see Rave shows a gasket and o rings. Can they be replaced without taking off the inlet manifold?
I bought an wee inspection mirror with 360 degree swivel and extendable arm for only $6 (should have got one years ago) and now I can see that the D on the tappet cover is leaking. Do you recommend using sealant with a new gasket?
I will live with the very minor leak between the head proper and the lower face of the cam carrier.
Master
MINOR OIL LEAK
Once again----I have replaced the tappet cover gasket myself bugger of a thing, also bought the cheaper cam cut out insert from UK worked loose in a matter of months!!! So got my local L/R mechanic to do the tappet cover gasket when he changed my auto trans oil and strainer. I then removed the engine cover thingy and left it off double checked the cam cut out and still saw a little oil---what I also noticed was that the oil from the front was blown towards the rear of the engine along the ridge of the head ,now as I have previously stated I took the advice of a fellow AULROer and used some plumbers tape {the pinkish type} under the Viton o-ring on the cut out -----no more oil leak !!! that is from higher on the engine now all I have to fix is the leaks from the transfer--WELL IT IS A LANDY AFTER ALL
Wizard
You can do the job without taking off the inlet manifold. Plenty of advice on how to do it - a quick search will yield good results.
Pete
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
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