Thread: Coolant Leak From Metal Cylinder?

If it's a Td5 you're talking about, your leak would be coming from the fuel cooler. Quite commin, especially during the cooler weather.

It is repairable and not expensive. Basically you need to replace a large 'O' ring in each end of the housing.

Do a search on Td5 Fuel Cooler and you'll find the part number for the viton (recommended) 'O' rings and some good informative tutorials. The part most likely to give you some angst is replacing the two clamps on each end - but that's also covered in one of the threads/tutorials.

Hope it goes well for you.

I came up with BS225 Viton O-rings, does the fuel cooler need to be removed or can you fit the O-rings as is?

There's a hard way and an easy way of doing just about everything - the easy way, in this case is to remove the cooler.

Can you be a bit more specific re your location as there may be some AULRO members nearby who could advise/assist?

Ok, I'm in Hobart.

So only 2 O-rings are needed?

Why would it be cooling fuel, wouldn't it be heating the diesel so it burns better?

Originally Posted by Lyonbyrd

.......Why would it be cooling fuel, wouldn't it be heating the diesel so it burns better?

The cooler the fuel is, the more dense it is, the greater the calorific value, the bigger the bang.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

There's a hard way and an easy way of doing just about everything - the easy way, in this case is to remove the cooler.

Can you be a bit more specific re your location as there may be some AULRO members nearby who could advise/assist?

How can removing everything be easier
Just do in-situ it's a clamp and your done!

joy! this pretty much breaks it down

www.discovery2.co.uk - Leaking Fuel Cooler Fix

Originally Posted by Lyonbyrd

Ok, I'm in Hobart.

So only 2 O-rings are needed?

Why would it be cooling fuel, wouldn't it be heating the diesel so it burns better?

The fuel circulates through the head and back to the tank, so gets headed to cylinder head temps. Stick your hand on the fuel filter in the rear wheel arch after a long run and you'll get an idea of why there is a cooler.

Unless you are a paided up member of the Bodgit and Scarper school of Td5 mechanicing and plan to fit a worm drive clamps, it's worth getting a pair of clic-r pliers (eBay is a good source). These pliers will let you remove and refit the original clamps with minimal fuss and no use of expletives.