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I think your auto is on the way out for sure. Those symptoms are pretty indicative of a dying auto. Do an oil change , its only 4.5l, and check the condition of the oil. Blackish with a burnt smell is overhaul time.
Mine is going through the same thing at the moment, just waiting for a time slot to get it done.
Cheers Scott
While I do not want to give you false hope , a Mass airflow meter (MAF) that is over reading can cause the engine to shut down at high revs just before a normal gear change and give the impression that there is something wrong with the auto.Quote:
When accelerating the revs flare and the car jerks, it does eventually go
into gear but i cant accelerate 100% without it screwing up
The circumstances in which my car did this was at full throttle and approaching 4000RPM, the computer read the MAF as out of range and the engine basically stopped, restarted stopped etc which gave the impression of the auto not changing, flaring etc.
If you trust the mechanic who says the auto is faulty then by all means have the trans repaired but I would get a second opinion from a well regarded Land Rover specialist before spendiong a very large amount of money.
Regards Philip A
I have read some stuff about doing a auto stall test?
Would doing that tell me anything?
Edit: I just did it and it was within spec at around 2700RPM - which i understand it should be at.
Edit again: I just read that the gearbox is very voltage sensative, i just realised that around the time when the problem started happening my 2nd battery from my duel battery system went. stunk like eggs and read like 5v or something - just went bad, so I disconected that. After doing this I dont think i have had the M&S lights again.
Would the problem clear if this was the cause or would it have to have faults cleared or something like that?
Just want to make sure its not something else before I have to have the whole gearbox rebuilt or replaced.
Any ideas?
Im stumped :(
Sorry Chappelle, My trans passed the stall test with the same symptoms as yours even through the Trans was stuffed. I looked at all alternatives but in the end I had to admit that the Trans needed overhaul which turned out to be an understatement.
Nick:)
Hi chappelle ..my next step before spending huge money on a rebuild would be to take it to an auto place familiar with ZF and have them run a diagnostic for electric faults. Then have them take the pan off and check solenoid and valve operation..one may be sticky. They can also take the valve block off and check it for foreign material etc as well as a small strainer type filter in there that sometimes blocks . A few hundred I paid for the same job and you may just solve it . The D2'S ZF boxes are pretty tough although all are getting on in age. Good luck.
BIG O
2003 D2 AUTO TD5
1999 D2 AUTO TD5 ACE
Pull the plug on top of your gearbox( from the XYZ switch) and check for oil. wash any oil and replug. All my probs went away when I did this.
Good luck.
ive had some issues with mine, one being limping home at 20kmph when it did it. it owuldnt start most of the time. and normally if i did get it started again it would fix itsself until next time. i am going to do a service kit on mine very soon, and also take it to a trans place when sell my car or boat, and make sure it is all ok in there. but the interesting thing that happened as it was getting worse and worse. i was looking around, and something fell out on me when i was under there. was a little clip thing that holds the selector lever in place. i believe it was not on straight or correct, and since it has been put on in the right spot, i touch wood, have not had any trans related issues LOL! no M and S flashing or anything. and ive towed a fair few times with it since. which is when id have a lot of issues. so not sure if i have just been lucky, or it was that clip not in right confusing it all. i have probably jinxed myself now! haha