Thread: Td5 Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

I haven't had the problem to date. Did they mod the manifold (remove the webbing) when it was off. Is it warped? Or did they just wack another gasket in?

They refaced manifold, replaced a couple of studs & replaced gasket.

There is also a second part to my enquiry: given last time it cost me over $700, is the replacement of the exhaust manifold gasket something someone moderately mechanically handy could undertake and, if so, are there any 'look out fors'? I have a copy of the Rave manual.

Originally Posted by witsenz

They refaced manifold, replaced a couple of studs & replaced gasket.

There is also a second part to my enquiry: given last time it cost me over $700, is the replacement of the exhaust manifold gasket something someone moderately mechanically handy could undertake and, if so, are there any 'look out fors'? I have a copy of the Rave manual.

I did mine myself with a little help from my mechanic. As they where to busy and they let me do it in there driveway.

There not hard to change. I will list a rough order of stuff that needs doing to change it-
Let cool
Engine cover off
Turbo heat shield off
Top radiator hose - I wanted to change coolant anyway.
Remove serpentine belt - You need an offset 15mm spanner saves having to remove the fan.
Remove intake hose from filter to turbo
Undo the 4 bolts on the AC (there is enough flex in the hoses)
Undo oil feed ontop of turbo.
Remove turbo from Exhaust manifold (once again there is enough flex in the hoses -turbo drain and exhaust)
Then remove the Exhaust manifold.

I borrowed there car and took it to some one that can machine it flat again. As it was slightly warped.
While that was being done. I removed all the old studs and had the broken ones removed.
Fitted new studs.

Had lunch and picked up machined manifold.

Then was basically a reverse of how I pulled it apart. It took me a day. But I am slow. When it goes again I will grind the webbing out.

Tools
Basic tools are needed. The only must haves would be the offset 15mm spanner to use on the belt tensioner . And a set of 3/8 sockets.
The reason for the 3/8 sockets is that the 1/2 are to thick in the wall and spanners sux.

Except for the broken studs I would be happy to do mine at home next time. Only thing I refuse to do is remove broken bolts/studs and thats only because last time I did it on a previous car I made a mess of it.

Can be done, take your time, I broke 2 studs, but luckily a mechanic mate gave me the number of a mobile mechanic who specialises in broken stud removal, [ has all the good gear, I tried drilling & easy-out, but drilled off centre. He saved my bacon]. As part of my 5, 000 KM service I check the tension on my manifold studs, the one at the back is almost always under tension. Good time to check the secret hose from the oil cooler, as well.
Bob