Regarding the harness speak to MR Automotive in Brisbane. They sell a leak resistant harness which I believe is a modified LR harness. Costs a bit more but the standard ones will eventually leak againQuote:
Originally Posted by paulk
Cheers
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Regarding the harness speak to MR Automotive in Brisbane. They sell a leak resistant harness which I believe is a modified LR harness. Costs a bit more but the standard ones will eventually leak againQuote:
Originally Posted by paulk
Cheers
Its just sensor safe plastic sealant!!.You just take the cap off the top..clean with brake cleaner or circuit board cleaner. Then work the sealant into the cavity..put the cap on and finish off on top with coating of sealant .
If you want to DIY, then 1/2 hour to 1 hour max should be how long it takes. Take the acoustic cover off, undo some bolts (don't let them drop behind the engine), take the injector cover off, take the harness off, old gasket out - and reverse the order, putting some silicon into parts of the gasket, as per RAVE (back driver's side area, IIRC).
Yes, it is worth replacing the rubber washers - they compress with age.Quote:
Originally Posted by paulk
No need to use gasket cement. The "trick" is to fit the gasket to the rocker cover and then press the metal and rubber spacers into place. Providing the gasket is in reasonable condition the spacers are a firm fit into the gasket and hold it in position without the need for additional help.
You do need to put two spots of sealant on each side of the D at the rear of the head. These are put directly onto the head and only need to 2-3mm in size.
cheers
Paul
Sorry about digging up an old thread but wanted to acknowledge that THIS TIP IS GOLD! It made the gasket swap MUCH easier this time around. Paul your information on this board it top class and has helped me out a few times now.Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
Cheers
Tony
I am keeping my old one hanging up to mature and I hope drain. It's been there for 6 months or so.
In another 6-12 months I will take it down and solder up the wires just near the injector plugs and maybe near the plug end .
I reckon the recycling will work.
Regards Philip A
Having just read the tutorial on discovery2.co.uk am I correct in that the only part of the loom that is changed is the internal section?
If this is the case how do you get rid of all the oil that is still in the loom between ECU and engine?
You will find out. It's a surprise.Quote:
If this is the case how do you get rid of all the oil that is still in the loom
between ECU and engine?
Seriously though , it continues to flow quietly into the red plug.
On a D2 , I took the gasket out of the plug and it then runs out and eventually stops. mine has taken about 4 months.
The injector terminals are at the bottom of the plug, so with the gasket out no other terminals are affected.
I have never had any problems from this approach.
If you wanted to be really obsessive you could put a set of blade connectors half way along the drain the oil out. I saw this on a British site but I think the down side of water entry possibility would override the upside.
Regards Philip A