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Thread: Injector wiring harness replacement

  1. #11
    discolaw Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by paulk View Post
    Many thanks for your replies, I think I will take my time and have a go.
    Some more questions -
    Harness and Gasket - genuine LR or OEM?
    What is best method to remove oil from ECU plug/socket?
    Should I also replace rubber washers on rocker cover bolts?
    Can I use a little gasket cement to hold gasket in place?
    The sealing of the harness - how is this done? Is there a procedure documented on this site?
    Regarding the harness speak to MR Automotive in Brisbane. They sell a leak resistant harness which I believe is a modified LR harness. Costs a bit more but the standard ones will eventually leak again
    Cheers

  2. #12
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    Its just sensor safe plastic sealant!!.You just take the cap off the top..clean with brake cleaner or circuit board cleaner. Then work the sealant into the cavity..put the cap on and finish off on top with coating of sealant .

  3. #13
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    Not hard to do at all

    If you want to DIY, then 1/2 hour to 1 hour max should be how long it takes. Take the acoustic cover off, undo some bolts (don't let them drop behind the engine), take the injector cover off, take the harness off, old gasket out - and reverse the order, putting some silicon into parts of the gasket, as per RAVE (back driver's side area, IIRC).

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulk View Post
    Should I also replace rubber washers on rocker cover bolts?
    Can I use a little gasket cement to hold gasket in place?
    Yes, it is worth replacing the rubber washers - they compress with age.

    No need to use gasket cement. The "trick" is to fit the gasket to the rocker cover and then press the metal and rubber spacers into place. Providing the gasket is in reasonable condition the spacers are a firm fit into the gasket and hold it in position without the need for additional help.

    You do need to put two spots of sealant on each side of the D at the rear of the head. These are put directly onto the head and only need to 2-3mm in size.

    cheers
    Paul

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    Yes, it is worth replacing the rubber washers - they compress with age.

    No need to use gasket cement. The "trick" is to fit the gasket to the rocker cover and then press the metal and rubber spacers into place. Providing the gasket is in reasonable condition the spacers are a firm fit into the gasket and hold it in position without the need for additional help.

    You do need to put two spots of sealant on each side of the D at the rear of the head. These are put directly onto the head and only need to 2-3mm in size.

    cheers
    Paul
    Sorry about digging up an old thread but wanted to acknowledge that THIS TIP IS GOLD! It made the gasket swap MUCH easier this time around. Paul your information on this board it top class and has helped me out a few times now.

    Cheers
    Tony

  6. #16
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    I am keeping my old one hanging up to mature and I hope drain. It's been there for 6 months or so.
    In another 6-12 months I will take it down and solder up the wires just near the injector plugs and maybe near the plug end .
    I reckon the recycling will work.
    Regards Philip A

  7. #17
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    Having just read the tutorial on discovery2.co.uk am I correct in that the only part of the loom that is changed is the internal section?

    If this is the case how do you get rid of all the oil that is still in the loom between ECU and engine?
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  8. #18
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    If this is the case how do you get rid of all the oil that is still in the loom
    between ECU and engine?
    You will find out. It's a surprise.
    Seriously though , it continues to flow quietly into the red plug.
    On a D2 , I took the gasket out of the plug and it then runs out and eventually stops. mine has taken about 4 months.
    The injector terminals are at the bottom of the plug, so with the gasket out no other terminals are affected.
    I have never had any problems from this approach.
    If you wanted to be really obsessive you could put a set of blade connectors half way along the drain the oil out. I saw this on a British site but I think the down side of water entry possibility would override the upside.
    Regards Philip A

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