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Thread: d2 rock sliders

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Guys.. 22mtr radius curve... Put one in it will ya!
    That huge gap looks awful
    Please explain.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    I like the look of the APT stubby sliders.

    APT Fabrication Custom Land Rover Parts & Accessories - APT Stubbie Rock Sliders | Discovery 2

    I reckon that, if they don't stick out so far, they'll hook-up less and, if they are hitting less logs and rocks, they are sure to bend less and mess-up the sills less too.

    If they do make contact, is seems to make sense that, if the contact point is closer to the car, there will be less leverage applied and therefore less potential damage to either the slider itself or the sill.

    Has anyone got any experience with the stubby design or any further general comments about the APT fit & finish?

    Same issues I mentioned previously and sometimes it's quite good to have emailed stick out more just ask my Defender ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426150267.325322.jpg

    Saved me from panel damage here

  3. #53
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Please explain.

    The sill on a D2 has a curve based on a 22mtr radius.

    It means the sliders then follow the sill, not leaving a bloody awful gap up the front...

    The difference is in the details....

  4. #54
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    Jan 2012
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    Sliders and Hi Lift's

    Hi all just wondering if any one has had to use a Hi lift on their Sliders and if they have much movement. Just looking at making a couple of sets with a mate as we have some steel laying around. Just looking at something that can take a big hit and a fair weight. Thanks in advance

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Perth, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    The sill on a D2 has a curve based on a 22mtr radius.

    It means the sliders then follow the sill, not leaving a bloody awful gap up the front...
    I wonder if some well calculated welds would be enough to bow the sliders up?

    I mean if using RHS for the slider, run a weld across the RHS every 150mm or whatever works. The contracting of the weld as it cools will bow the RHS.

    Once you work out what gives the correct bend, every 150mm, 100mm, 200mm or whatever, then do the whole length.

    I'm going to make some after a recent dent to my door from laying over in mud.

    Happy Days.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    I have used a hi lift, just to check. Also put some weight across them with the winch to see if they will at least hold sideways. A bit of twist on lift, landed a big hit off road and they twisted the sill (~~ 5mm) but a large bar put it back.

    Joel, depends on how they're fitted. Mine sit under the sill, plus a vertical flat plate that uses the OEM holes for nut insert, so no bending. Just painted out the area black.

    But it will also depend on the size/thickness of the RHS. mine are 100x50x4 by memory. So not much chance. And they'll hold 100bar of pressure as air storage.

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