Thanks for tips, all. Seal kit is on its way. I'll be sure to post up any ... . er .. .. interesting anecdotes.
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Thanks for tips, all. Seal kit is on its way. I'll be sure to post up any ... . er .. .. interesting anecdotes.
Box is out. Stumbled at the final hurdle .. hi/lo cable clevis is peened on both sides. Did you fellas drill it out?
Leak is definately from the input seal. Intermediate shaft area is pretty clean.
Question: what's the significance of the third, unused bolt in the case surrounding the CDL spigot? Two bolts mount the cable, the third is seemingly unemployed. The head on that bolt is mangled, wondering if attempting to remove and replace is worth the hassle.
Just wondering if it's possible to remove the transfer case without a hoist or a pit?
Removing not too difficult, though the adaptor plate for the jack as shown in rave would be very handy. Getting it back in is going to be challenging on my crappy driveway.
Re: clevis pin. Forget that, a bit of daylight revealed my stupidity. The pin pushes straight out.
Should say, sleeping wood, that I had an extra set of hands to help balance the box and manouvre the jack.
Would you believe the most difficult bit was unclipping the electrical connectors?
yes, i do call out work for this and have done them in some pretty shocking excuses for driveways.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeping Wood
its easier with 3 people but managable with 2 and no other lifting gear if you have the muscles for it.
When the transfer case is removed does the front or rear (or both) of the vehicle need to be supported on stands?
Best to have both, more room the better. But.... make sure your jacks go high enough to lift your gearboxes an inch or two above their mounted height.
Box back in. Chose to install input seal prior to re-aligning box rather than using the transmission output shaft technique.
No real difficulties. Took two blokes, an apprentice to manouvre the jack and 2 beers to get her in and everything else re-installed.
Thanks for the tips.