Reply With Quotere-think: seal conditioner probably not a good idea as it might create problems with output seals.
Master
Think I have a leaky input seal. Will be adding some seal conditioner on the chance I might avoid pulling the transfer case out but odds are that won't work.
So, anyone here pulled their transfer box out? Looks to me like I might have to pull the lid off the tunnel to access two of the bolts (top front and back) holding the transfer box to the auto box, and to remove the selector cables, harness plugs etc.
RAVE doesn't say anything about having to do that but from under the truck it looks like there's no alternative.
Thoughts anyone?
Master
re-think: seal conditioner probably not a good idea as it might create problems with output seals.
RoverLord
you need a good socket set and it all gets done from underneath
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
Have a decent set. Any special requirements you can think of? Any traps for young players?
A Keeper of the TGO
All removable from underneath
Once the rear mounts are off and it's lowered there is access as Blknight said.
It's more than likely leaking from the intermediate shaft o ring.
I dropped mine with out removing the exhaust as per the RAVE method.
Have hunt in the project areas for my thread I did when working on mine.
For checking the diff shims...http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...pection-2.html
When refitting the box slip the input seal onto the auto output shaft and leave it loose.
Slip the transfer box on and fit some long bolts as guides then fit the seal.
It's fiddley but low risk of damage to the seal this way.
Master
Any difficulty in driving the seal home that way, alien?
I already pulled the mid pipe this arvo. Hopefully get to the transfer case later this week.
Thanks lads.
RoverLord
have some strong friends.
shaft to input gear and seal alingment is critical
get all the bolts started they should all be finger tight when putting it back, if they're not its not aligned properly
watch the electrical connections at the top, they like to fall and sit in front of the 2 faces.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
AT REST
Do you still use the 150mm long guide studs like on the earlier models? It helped a lot when I did big bro's RRC transfer case a few years ago. Just cut the heads off some 150mm long 10mm bolts and installed them temporarily in place of two of the regular bolts. No seal damage that way.
I found when refitting the transfer case to the auto the best way to avoid damaging the transfer input seal was to remove the output shaft from the auto and mount the transfer case and poke the gearbox output shaft through and reinstall, then refit the top gear in the transfer case, this is from working on my own and damaging a brand new transfer case input seal whilst trying to line the case up on the output shaft, makes it a lot easier
A Keeper of the TGO
A bit tight but doable.Originally Posted by ballbag
I used a small hammer to "encourage" the seal home.
There is some good tips here from the others
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