Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: resealed the TD5 FPR and manifold today-PITA

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,162
    Total Downloaded
    0

    resealed the TD5 FPR and manifold today-PITA

    OK , I knew I needed to reseal the FPR as I was getting a drip down the loom and onto the sump.
    Seeing I have big hands and a stiff back, I thought I would remove the inlet manifold.
    What a PITA!!! just about every bolt was very very difficult to get at, so much so that I had to remove and replace most of them with a grabber tool as there was no room to get the fingers down. I have a good selection of 3/8, 1/4 and 1/2 drive sockets but it took every permutation to get the correct formula.
    Most handy was a 3/8 wobble drive about 25CM long.
    It would be easier if you broke into the cooling system and removed the fuel cooler , but all the damn cooling and other pipes get in the way also . I chose not to as that is for another day.

    The actual bolts and nuts were just over finger tight and the inside of the manifold and the EGR valve were just filthy and took quite a while to degrease and clean out with the Gerni.
    Once the manifold is off it is easy to R&R the FPR. By the marks on the bolts It had been done before and the actual regulator was not leaking. I think the leak was from the gasket to the head. Someone had used Rolls Royce type sealant , which I do not think is a good idea. It took quite a while to clean thoroughly.
    I bought a kit from UK with genuine orings and a gasket which was quite cheap, so hopefully last time the whole thing was replaced and the pipes are still good. The main pipe to the front looks fine with no weeping. I also replaced the inlet manifold gasket.

    Well I must be slow as it took all day with about an 8PM finish.
    All I can say is that the person who said he can knock it over in two hours is a better man than me Gunga Din.Probably smaller and 40 years younger too.
    Regards Philip A

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orange, NSW
    Posts
    7,965
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Damn, I wanted to remove my inlet manifold to clean all the crap out of it when I do my EGR bypass...
    Maybe not...
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Augusta WA
    Posts
    741
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Smile

    It's very much easier with the Fuel Cooler removed which is also not as hard as you might think.

    Nick

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,162
    Total Downloaded
    0

    It's very much easier with the Fuel Cooler removed which is also not as hard
    as you might think.
    No probably not but if you remove it , you should replace the coolant which costs about $40 or so.
    I intend to replace all my hoses and the cooler orings in the nearish future , after the sump bolt check.
    The cooler is a bit of a bugger as there are 2 long bolts below it which you cannot see which are loctited in. You tend to be undoing forever with the limited swing on the socket.
    BTW I forgot to mention that the D2 is the Bermuda Triangle of cars. I lost one bolt , one nut and a socket never to be seen again. I guess I will find them one day when I am taking guards off for some other job. Worse than a Porsche and that is saying something.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Augusta WA
    Posts
    741
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Have you not worked out yet what the occasional tinkling sound you hear is as you drive down the road.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kilmore Vic
    Posts
    211
    Total Downloaded
    0

    must agree

    I did the fpr the other day and ended up taking the starter motor off to reach the bottom bolt from underneath. Much easier, if you have the correct socket extension to get to the nut on the top of the starter motor!
    D2 TD5 Manual

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,162
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I later remembered a couple of things about removing the inlet manifold.

    1 You have to loosen off the alternator stay to get a socket to the front nut. There are two studs one front one back to hang the manifold on.

    2 You have to remove the entire main engine loom from MAF, temp sensor etc etc and thread it through the manifold as you pull it off. Make sure to take note of where it goes.

    3 you have to be careful to remove the glow plug leads as you remove the manifold as they thread through the runners also.
    Regard sPhilip A

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!