Damn, I wanted to remove my inlet manifold to clean all the crap out of it when I do my EGR bypass...
Maybe not...
OK , I knew I needed to reseal the FPR as I was getting a drip down the loom and onto the sump.
Seeing I have big hands and a stiff back, I thought I would remove the inlet manifold.
What a PITA!!! just about every bolt was very very difficult to get at, so much so that I had to remove and replace most of them with a grabber tool as there was no room to get the fingers down. I have a good selection of 3/8, 1/4 and 1/2 drive sockets but it took every permutation to get the correct formula.
Most handy was a 3/8 wobble drive about 25CM long.
It would be easier if you broke into the cooling system and removed the fuel cooler , but all the damn cooling and other pipes get in the way also . I chose not to as that is for another day.
The actual bolts and nuts were just over finger tight and the inside of the manifold and the EGR valve were just filthy and took quite a while to degrease and clean out with the Gerni.
Once the manifold is off it is easy to R&R the FPR. By the marks on the bolts It had been done before and the actual regulator was not leaking. I think the leak was from the gasket to the head. Someone had used Rolls Royce type sealant , which I do not think is a good idea. It took quite a while to clean thoroughly.
I bought a kit from UK with genuine orings and a gasket which was quite cheap, so hopefully last time the whole thing was replaced and the pipes are still good. The main pipe to the front looks fine with no weeping. I also replaced the inlet manifold gasket.
Well I must be slow as it took all day with about an 8PM finish.
All I can say is that the person who said he can knock it over in two hours is a better man than me Gunga Din.Probably smaller and 40 years younger too.
Regards Philip A
It's very much easier with the Fuel Cooler removed which is also not as hard as you might think.
Nick
No probably not but if you remove it , you should replace the coolant which costs about $40 or so.
It's very much easier with the Fuel Cooler removed which is also not as hard
as you might think.
I intend to replace all my hoses and the cooler orings in the nearish future , after the sump bolt check.
The cooler is a bit of a bugger as there are 2 long bolts below it which you cannot see which are loctited in. You tend to be undoing forever with the limited swing on the socket.
BTW I forgot to mention that the D2 is the Bermuda Triangle of cars. I lost one bolt , one nut and a socket never to be seen again. I guess I will find them one day when I am taking guards off for some other job. Worse than a Porsche and that is saying something.
Regards Philip A
Have you not worked out yet what the occasional tinkling sound you hear is as you drive down the road.![]()
I did the fpr the other day and ended up taking the starter motor off to reach the bottom bolt from underneath. Much easier, if you have the correct socket extension to get to the nut on the top of the starter motor!![]()
D2 TD5 Manual
I later remembered a couple of things about removing the inlet manifold.
1 You have to loosen off the alternator stay to get a socket to the front nut. There are two studs one front one back to hang the manifold on.
2 You have to remove the entire main engine loom from MAF, temp sensor etc etc and thread it through the manifold as you pull it off. Make sure to take note of where it goes.
3 you have to be careful to remove the glow plug leads as you remove the manifold as they thread through the runners also.
Regard sPhilip A
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