Chip is on the list
Printable View
Chip is on the list
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by MR LR
And a BuildThread would be very interessant! :D
I fitted a Mantec snorkel, purchased from a leading UK supplier. The hardest part was plucking up the courage to cut the hole in the guard, as per the template. An excellent tutorial is found on this leading UK LR website, Bob
www.discovery2.co.uk /Raised Air Intake (snorkel)
The forward facing head on the Southdown snorkel is not good when it is raining. Whilst driving during a 1 hour downpour in QLD, enough water was ingested to render the air filter unusable.
I have since extended the snorkel approximately 6 or so inches and faced the head rearwards(looks like a Mantec but shiny). Hopefully this will fix the problem.
Cheers,
Jason
I finished fitting mine last night. I found that although I stuck the template on as marked it seems to be 5 mm to far back. Note bought room at the front and gap at the back. I'll retrim the guard a bit more another day. Amazing how much air it sucks in.
But if I put my hand over the top and seal it the engine revs don't change do to think this means it's sucking air somewhere else?
Totally sealing the snorkel should choke the engine.
Interestingly, my post about sucking in water to the point of choking the engine on the wet filter?
I did read it on the uk board....But by a poster who lives in Perth WA ;)
Hope you're happy with your work matt :)
Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
Yup, block the air intake and it'll be sucking from elsewhere taking a path of least resistance. It could be from where the snorkle pipe enters the head shroud - there's not a continous 360 weld - i imagine it's deliberate and allows an alternative path for water to drain from the shroud, no different to other brand snorkles - they all have self draining heads. But the main contributors are probably LR components, usually the oval shaped flexible connector in the engine bay at the mudguard wall before the airbox will leak air. It's made of a rubberised fabric and after 10 or 15 years in service there's more fabric than rubber left making it less than airtight (or watertight). Many members on here wrap it in self sealing "rescue tape" to restore it to like new. Also there are two drains in the airbox, first check that you have the duckbill drain valve in place (visible in the wheel arch) and that it's actually sucking closed when the engine is running - I've replaced mine with a rubber pipe cap to permanently seal it, others just fill it with silicon and refit. And finally there is a small covered drain at the bottom of the airbox visible when you remove the filter - i chiselled off the moulding shielding the hole, enlarged the hole then inserted a 10mm sealing grommet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattg
onebob
I haven't put the head on yet so I can seal it off with my hand easily. I'll check all of the above. Cheers guys
I recently fitted a RVTEK $AUD108.00 Safari rip off snorkel from ebay. It was a bit of a challenge, at first it did not appear to line up and the snout at the air box end was too long. The template was out by 5mm on 1 axis and 10mm the other. Fortunately I cut the big hole in the correct spot.
To install it i had to:
Cut the snout short by 10mm
Bolt the horizontal part of the snorkel to the panel.
Fit the A pillar bracket to the snorkel.
Flex the vertical part to line up with the A pillar.
Mark the holes on the A pillar and fit the bracket.
Flex the vertical part for the snorkel back to the A pillar and bolt to the bracket.
Sikaflex the fabric of the factory oval shaped pipe connecting the snorkel to air box.
Sikaflex oval shaped factory pipe to car body where it meets snorkel.
Sikaflex and rivet cast alloy receiver to car body.
Fortunately the snorkel covers the incorrect now L shaped bolt holes, the snout fits perfectly in the cast alloy bracket fitted to the car body where the snorkel snout meets with the factory hole. Lots of Sikaflex involved to seal it.
I will now take onebob's advise and seal the air box.
I would not necessarily advise people not to buy cheap snorkels, but I would advise them to line the horizontal part on the snorkel with the bottom of the V fold line in the panel. Mark the holes on the panel by screwing in long bolts (approx 150mm) into the snorkel put grease or something on the bolt head and push against panel (while lined up with V line). While doing this it is also important to make sure the snout more or less lines up with the factory oval hole in the body. Once you have the bolt holes it is simple to measure (or trace if your confident) where the snout hole needs to be and how big it needs to be cut.
Once all that looks right, then and only then, cut the large hole for the snout. Remove the long bolts, fit the studs and check the bolt holes, remark if required.
Drill a 3mm pilot hole and use a step bit to drill the bolt holes, about 2 sizes larger than you need so you have some fine adjustment room.
That is my advise for what it is worth. It is a bit of work, but saves you hundreds of dollars. Not sure how long the snorkel will last, but i'm going to suck it and see.
There is a reason why a genuwine safari costs,although I am yet to be convinced there is enough of 1 to justifie some of the prices asked:?