Thread: Another couple of LR engineers on hit list hoses

...welcome to my world, phillip.


jc

Phillip since you spent nearly 11 hours on it, it might have been quicker to pull the motor out and get to all those tight spots and refit the motor.
I often wonder where car manufactures find all those employees with nimble tiny hands to fit all those things.

The thing is engines and transmissions assemblys are fitted by the vehicle body/ chassis being lowered over the top of them, where we have to work from the top with contraints.

I often watch docos and you see the factories building vehicles, it looks so simple in the production line, entire dashes put in on swing arms and a few screws to do up and all is finished. Yet when you go to pull a dash out to get to a heater box it's always harder and takes ages.

oh the joys
regards,
Mario

I feel your pain re the turbo heat shield. In the end we bent it so as to grind the rivets out ant get to the rounded bolt on the turbo. So until the warped exhaust is done it stays off. Might tackle hoses at that point too ?

Phillip since you spent nearly 11 hours on it, it might have been quicker to
pull the motor out and get to all those tight spots and refit the motor.
I often wonder where car manufactures find all those employees with
nimble tiny hands to fit all those things.

Yeah Riiiight.LOL
I just get annoyed by stupid design.
I don't know about new Jap cars but the older ones were so easy to work on compared to European, and didn't have built in poor design.

I mean the fuel cooler is so inaccessable and poorly designed it takes about an hour or more to R&R plus another say 20 minutes to replace the orings which often seem to start to leak at about 100KK. The bracket stops you reaching the button to release the diesel quick connect. I got sneaky and used an air wrench on the invisible bolts ( which are twice as long as the top accessible bolts and slathered in loctite) by feel and that stopped the damn airlines for the EGR from unsetting the socket rachet on every turn until I got tape and taped over the rachet lever. I made a tool by bending the tips of a set of needle nose pliers inwards to release both buttons of the coupling simultaneously. Lucky I bought the correct fitting pliers for the locking bands although a hose screw clamp would be OK.

The doozy is the bolt holding the heat deflector on the turbo and I wonder how many are missing because the mechanic/owner gets the irrits and chucks it. The funny thing is that the sytem on the RRC for the starter heat deflector has a hex rod with a bolt thread on one end and a thread for a bolt in the other. That system fitted on the turbo would make it a cinch. I was thinking to maybe get some allthread and make up a similar thing as I now dread taking off the turbo and exhaust manifold.. I also wonder how many engines die because of a mechanic not changing the hidden hose as it deteriorates much quicker than all the others as it is near the turbo. There was a posting here recently of one blowing which is often bye bye engine.

The hidden hose itself is also stupid, in that you cannot fit a new one without bending the pipe as the stubs are so close together . Why have 2 different size stubs? Why have a limiter on the pipe ? If you could slip the hose right along the pipe then slide it back to the other stub it would be much easier. Why have the stubs 5MM away from each other as you are having a hose anyway?

Little things like the lowest outlet hose spring clamp cannot be fitted in an accessible way because it fouls the radiator shroud. The only way it can be fitted is pointing towards the battery where there is no room to clamp it ( I think even if you removed the battery box). After checking and finding this I went to my box of screw clamps and started chucking spring clamps.
I did like the orientation marks on the hoses to guide mechanics how to fit them so they don't foul things.
Anyway enough ranting. I am resting today. I don't have to do it again hopefully for another 11 years and by that time I probably will be too old and arthritic( or dead)
At least my brass bleed plug went into the new hose without the thread falling out of the hose and Justin's ( I think) coke bottle method worked very well as I have a funnel which exactly fits the reservoir filler hole.

Thanks to Gary at CLR for a comprehesive kit which even included the fragile nylon lines. I only noticed the Heath Robinson hose someone had fitted to the EGR cooler when I pulled it off. It had a brass nipple with thread clamped into a hose to couple with the header tank.
Regards Philip A

From a previous discussion on the TD5 radiator, a modified radiator was fitted to TD5 engines which changed the design from one with a separate space in the bottom for the fuel cooler, to a full flow radiator , with only the bottom spigot supplying coolant to the fuel cooler, via a reduced orifice. When I replaced my radiator, this indeed proved to be the case. Therefore, there is no need for the secret hose, and it can be blanked off. The associated piping can then be removed, if you wish. BTW, did you remove the 10 mm bolt & bracket holding the pipe to the back of the engine, when I changed my secret hose some time ago, I found that provided me with enough leverage to get the hose on, but not an easy job. Bob

The modification L8711bu.pdf (770.4 KB, 27 view

The blanking plug part no. PYB500040 [ I haven't done it yet, so must take another members word for this. BTW, I have removed my heat shield entirely, so far no problems. I don't have a 2nd battery in the engine bay.]

mmmm
I have looked in to replace the hoses, was going to be near on $2000 for the hoses and labour, but I suspect that there could be an error there somewhere.

It is something that needs to be done, as it could be cheaper in the long run but it is still a pricey exercise.

could you provide the details for Gary at CLR so I could get a quote please?

thanks
Hay Ewe

I will PM.
regards Philip A

Originally Posted by Hay Ewe

mmmm
I have looked in to replace the hoses, was going to be near on $2000 for the hoses and labour, but I suspect that there could be an error there somewhere.

It is something that needs to be done, as it could be cheaper in the long run but it is still a pricey exercise.

could you provide the details for Gary at CLR so I could get a quote please?

thanks
Hay Ewe

I replaced all my hoses, new radiator, cleaned the intercooler. How I approached the job, I bought a new hose every two weeks, until I had a set, studied RAVE, & the HAYNES manual, & the forum, & got to work. Removed intercooler & radiator, sent radiator away, it failed the pressure test, new one from MR, with warranty. I took my time, something I have plenty of. Made sure all hose clamps were accessible when fitted, & walked away from the job when frustrated. [ often ] The end result, a cooler running engine, as per the 'welltempered ' temp. readout, coolant level that has not moved after a long trip [ did not happen before], & a sense of satisfaction . That $2000 quote is actually a bit low, the labour content in this job is extremely high. There are parts of the job where I needed a 2nd pair of hands,[ No. 1 son came in handy] Another recommendation, if you decide to take it on, have a good look at this site

www.discovery2.co.uk excellent advice. Bob