Thread: Disco 2 rear diff housing/wheel bearings as trailer axle?

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Where you will have problems is having a handbrake, because hydraulic handbrakes tend to lose pressure and come off over time.

i haven't experienced this to date....although my set up is only a few months old. to date i have left the hydraulic brake on for at least three weeks and its still rock solid

if your braking system is on good order than it shouldn't leak........

jayden, how are you applying the brakes, overide or electric actuator?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Interstingly...

go buy a standard blank axle at the length you want then have it machined down to fit the ID of the landy stub axle. Give it say 5 thou interference fit and then after leavign the end of the axle in a bucket of iced water and the stub in the oven on 200 for 30 minutes drop the stub onto the axle, let it cool. Slide a backing plate up to the back of the flange and with it all bolted up tight weld it in place.

Done.
.

Dave, how do you replace the stub if you need to?

as you are going to a machine shop i would have a flange that suits the stub welded to solid bar....this way you can replace the stub if required or if stuck in the middle of now where with a damaged stub on the disco you can pull one from the trailer......this setup give more options

Originally Posted by Disco 2 Driver

Morning Kevin,
I wouldn't ask anyone...as I too doubt I'd find anybody!

actuall the first machine shop i asked knocked mine up........its only round/square bar with a machined flanged welded to it

are you sold on independant?

This is how we built our boat trailer about 12 years ago. Based on the rear end of a Series1 Disco, much easier than a D2 because the Series1 has floating axles. We have taken this up the Cape, around the Gulf and go to Arnhem Land annually.






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Admittedly we don't carry anything near 1800kgs but I have no doubt it would handle it




Erich

Originally Posted by weeds

actuall the first machine shop i asked knocked mine up........its only round/square bar with a machined flanged welded to it

are you sold on independant?

No Kevin, not completely sold on independent but have got to admit I'm certainly leaning that way. There is work involved either way but one would imagine it'll be easier having a beam axle.


Ta.

Originally Posted by Disco 2 Driver

No Kevin, not completely sold on independent but have got to admit I'm certainly leaning that way. There is work involved either way but one would imagine it'll be easier having a beam axle.


Ta.

If you go beam than look at my thread where I built a custom axle with electric over hydraulic brakes.........with handbrake

Originally Posted by weeds

If you go beam than look at my thread where I built a custom axle with electric over hydraulic brakes.........with handbrake

Thanks Kevin for the thread - excellent! Handbrake still works well? Does it eventually loose pressure overnight/extended period of time? Do you recall where you got the valve from? Sorry for the questions!


Glad to see others out there are certainly not afraid to do the extraordinary!


Good inspiration!

here is the main thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...c-upgrade.html

here is the valve i used for the handbrake.......i have left it locked on for three weeks and it has not leaked or released ALLSTAR - ALL48010 | Manual Brake Shut-Off Valve | IBRP.com.au - Australia

other bits and pieces

found the bits, this guy was very helpfull Wide Bay Brakehose Service Online Shop

2 x BQ48 is the adaptor
2 x BQ5555 are the tube nuts

hope that helps