Thread: Disco 2 rear diff housing/wheel bearings as trailer axle?

Originally Posted by weeds

Dave, how do you replace the stub if you need to?

as you are going to a machine shop i would have a flange that suits the stub welded to solid bar....this way you can replace the stub if required or if stuck in the middle of now where with a damaged stub on the disco you can pull one from the trailer......this setup give more options

remove the bolts to the welded on flange then grind off the stub axle or heat it up with the gas axe.


as for independant VS beam axle for the trailer...

go the beam. if you're running the trailer on a simple box beam axle with the same size rubber on it as the defender up the front whats the trailer axle going to catch on that the defender hasnt already been over?

and if your going to be going that fast that handling characteristics of the trailer warrant the additional stability and traction that independent suspension offers then you wont be towing it behind a defender so why bother putting defender stuff on it?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

remove the bolts to the welded on flange then grind off the stub axle or heat it up with the gas axe.

sounds complicated compared to just removing six bolts to replace a stub.......but than again if you carry a grinder, gas axe and a press go for it i say

you dont need a press to get it off, hell done right and remotely looked after the stub axles should outlast the life of the trailer.

Originally Posted by weeds

i haven't experienced this to date....although my set up is only a few months old. to date i have left the hydraulic brake on for at least three weeks and its still rock solid

if your braking system is on good order than it shouldn't leak........

jayden, how are you applying the brakes, overide or electric actuator?

Hi Kevin,


There seems to be two 'levels' of this thread for some reason so didn't see this question 'till now.


I'm going to be purchasing an Electric/Hydraulic Actuator, 1600 psi model.


I'm relieved to have found out of your success with not only the brakes but also the handbrake function.


Appreciate your time. - Jayden

Originally Posted by Disco 2 Driver

Hi Kevin,


There seems to be two 'levels' of this thread for some reason so didn't see this question 'till now.


I'm going to be purchasing an Electric/Hydraulic Actuator, 1600 psi model.


I'm relieved to have found out of your success with not only the brakes but also the handbrake function.


Appreciate your time. - Jayden

Cracka must be close to finishing his install as well......

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you dont need a press to get it off, hell done right and remotely looked after the stub axles should outlast the life of the trailer.

All I was pointing out is if you are going to the trouble of machining than shrink fitting for about the same effort you can have a set up so you can remove and reassemble using hand tools

the process of doing the shrink fit for the first one ensures that the shaft is true when you weld the mounting plate on...

yes it may be a little over the top for a basic trailer but then what some people define as overkill I call a good starting point.

Weld flanges on than machine, stubs will be spot on

Will be interested to see some pic of your handy work