coolant.
Can anyone quickly identify this pink residue/build up please?
cheers
Baz
coolant.
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Probably from the stub to hose connection on the water outlet of the engine just above the EGR pipe.
This stub had grown a crusty coating from a slow leak on mine, so maybe a new hose needed with new clip and a thorough clean of the stub with sandpaper or similar to give a smooth surface. You usually get new clips with the hose.
Regards Philip A
Certainly seems to be leaking from the hose above in that photo.
Check on the end of the hose - if you can see the same sort of growth on the ends of the reinforcing fibres in the hose I'd be guessing the hose has become porous internally and needs replacing anyway.
If the fibres look normal and the leaking seems to be just between the hose and the fitting that it attaches to, then as Phillip said a simple clean up/hose, and new clamp may sort it out.
Personally, I use Permatex #3 "Aviation Form-a-gasket" on all my coolant to alloy housing joints. Makes the hoses a bit of a bugger to get off, but seems to stop the usual corrosion that occurs, and its very rare that I've had one leak.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
The hose itself seems a bit crusty and most likely has lost it's integrity so I'll be off ti find a new one shortly! Thanks everyone!
As a tip, an old bicycle chain (or even just borrow one off a bike temporarily, as it comes to no harm) wrapped around the stub and run back and forth makes it very easy to clean the corrosion off those hard to reach bits.
Thanks everyone! Turns out that both the stub hose connection needed a clean up and the gasket between this bolt on stub and the head needed replacement. Have done both now and replaced the coolant at the same time. After searching coolant refill on the forum it appears that there are a few ways to do it. I followed the manual in lifting the header tank up and filling it while loosening the bleed screw until all the air (bubbles) came out and I had a nice clear stream of coolant seeping out. I then took it for a drive until the thermostat opened and it got to working temp and then let it cool down at which point you could see more air going out at the header tank. I hope now that all the air is out of the system but how can you be certain/check this? Just trying to grasp the concept of an air lock in the system and try my best to avoid it. I only got about 4 liters in originally and once I took it for a drive and turned the heater on I was able to get a total of 6 liters of a possible 8 in there
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