The problem is I'm not sure of the real cause. I'd hate to replace the fuel pump and find that's not the problem. Another issue is lack of time. I'll chat to the old boy and see what he wants to do.
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Go down near the rear of the vehicle and then get someone to turn on the key. You should hear the pump. If you can't hear it the cause is from two things, either the pump has failed or it is not getting power to the pump.
If it is the latter it can only be the fuse or the pump relay. If you think it is the pump, when you remove the inspection plate and have access to the wires you can check to see if power is getting to the pump with a test light.
The blown fuses could point to a short to earth due to faulty insulation. The fuel cut off switch is on the firewall, passenger side, has a rubber top to it, if you hit something, is designed to cut the fuel, reset by pushing down on the top [ doubtful it is that, just part of the process of elimination] Wouldn't hurt to inspect the fuel pump wiring closely. Bob
EDIT- according to Haynes, the earth for the fuel pump , E1, is on the right hand side of the engine bay. The fuel pump fuses are 30 Amp
Testing pump
When the the ignition is turned to position II you should hear the pump "buzzing" approx 5 seconds
If no buzzing
Check inertia switch under bonnet on bulkhead.
Check fuse and relays.
Fuse F10-30amp;
The pump's relay(R1)
Main relay(R9) both these relays needed for the pump's feed.
If all good remove the carpet on the boot floor then the six cover screws to reach top of the pump.
Locate the connector plug
and remove it.
Test power feed to pump easy to do with a bulb and wire.
If present then feed side of the circuit is ok
If not further testing is needed.
Next locate the corresponding pin on the pump (i.e the pin on the pump that corresponds the one on the removed connector which the WP connects to
This is the pin connected to the electrical motor inside the pump.
test for continuity between this pin and ground pin(thick black wire).
There should be a very small resistance if the motor is still ok approx 145ohms if using the genuine LR pump.
If the last test proves ok (i.e there is continuity), then get another wire from a known good +12V source on the vehicle, preferably fused, and connect it directly to Pin1 WP position which corresponds to the electrical motor (i.e connect the motor in the pump direct to +12V). And Pin 4Black to earth.
The pump should start running and you'll be able to start the engine if the rest of the pump is still ok(if original supply is lost).
Then there could be a case of everything electrically ok, electrical motor buzzing in the pump, but no fuel pressure.
Pull pump and check its strainers for debris.
Hope this helps Pete
There are so many threads with the same name 'Won't start' that rather than start (oops) another one, I would tack my question on here, if that is permissable.
2002 TD5 Disco, never had trouble starting it since I've had it. Traveled Adelaide to Canberra and on to Sydney and back to Canberra, parked overnight had to crank it for a few seconds the next morning then got a start and stall. Restart and it was fine, then I left it standing all the rest of that day and the next. The following morning it would not start, cranked and cranked for ages, would not fire at all, then it started all of a sudden and was running as smoothly as you would like with no trouble since.
I had gone through lock the vehicle and unlock it with no response.
Just doesn't like Canberra??????
Regards
Mike
Mike, your problem sounds like crank angle sensor fail, rather than fuel.
Not a very hard to fix problem.
Pete
or this www.discovery2.co.uk / TD5 Fuel Pump replacement.
Which shows trim removal, although I have read here that the carpet can be pulled out, or cut with a Stanley Knife.
Thanks Bohica, It's probably worth reading both if your going to do the job.