Thread: Gerarbox back in, now no go....

Rather hot in the garage on this 40 deg day, so excuse the rambling


Have just got the box back in and lowered the car off the stands.

It will start, run for about a second then stop, with the amber engine light flashing. Does it in neutral and in gear. But I don't think the problem is related to the gearbox/clutch as surely the car wouldn't even have the momentum to fire and turn over for a bit if it was jammed in gear?

Going back a step, I had the box out to change the bellhousing after the driveshaft went through it a couple of weeks ago.

The car was startable and moveable (lost most of the oil in the R380 though through the cooler pipes) prior to my workings.

In order to get the oil cooler pipes off, I had to remove the intercooler to make room as the pipes were stuck. Took the airbox out as well.

Also, the bloody nut was stuck on top of the starter motor so took the inlet manifold off to get to it from above. It needed a LARGE breaker bar.

All those back together - I hope! I also changed the Crank Position Sensor as I had a spare and didn't know the history of the one that came with the bellhousing.

If I'm right and the problem is not related to a dodgy gearbox/clutch install, any pointers from the more technically minded here?

Hopefully I had a major blonde moment.

With no gearstick, I was shifting the transfer case in and out of Diff Lock, not High and Low. And I was doing this in Neutral.

Seems to work now as advertised - gears won't go in if engine running, and starting in gear lurches forward.

Can't drive it as there's a puddle of hydraulic fluid all over the floor after I pressed the clutch with the slave cylinder out....



But if those diff lock / high and low range cables from the transfer stick go to the transfer box, how does that affect the ability to select gears, as as mentioned earlier, surely these upstream of the transfer case and independent in that sense?