-
ok, let me get this straight....
on the vehicle so well made that the company got oil to leak out of a computer you want to add extra joints valves and seals to one of the main systems that can leave you stopped if it leaks too much as well as doing irreparable damage in the process and has no means other than failing (or catching fire if it was a jeep) to let you know that the oil was leaking out?
sounds like a plan to me.....
(no dont add extra bits, KISS. Its not like you're going to be doing trans oil changes in the field and if you are Id want to know who the hell planned the trip that you had to change trans oil during the trip)
IT also wont work as both sides of the cooler are under pressure.
And this post would have been a lot less sarcastic if I'd just mentioned that
-
When I want to do a full change I remove the return line from the cooler.
Do the filter change then remove the return line. Place a hose over it to a bucket. Fill auto and start engine.
Pump oil in whilst the dirty stuff is coming out.
As the oil out from the convertor is pumped to the cooler(because convertor is where most heat is generated) you basically get a convertor flush.
Many years ago on convertors without lock up if the auto was out I used to drill a hole in the convertor, drain the oil and do a few flushes with a solvent.
I would then weld up the hole.
Don't know whether this would be a good idea with a lock up type though, not knowing whether the solvent would have an adverse reaction on the lock up clutch plate.
-
Well given that I have screw fittings replacing all the poorly done fittings and swages...
And with those screw fittings you could fit the valves as required...
How do you get flow across the cooler if both sides are under pressure?
